27/01/2015

GENDER DUALITY

The question of Beauty sits at the core of a designer's dialogue with fashion. This is a large discussion embodied by the notion of masculinity. Every designer has his/her own version of it. There is not a single definition. This question is even more relevant through the AW2015-16 collections. We have already mentioned the über masculinity of Rick Owens. Hedi Slimane has brought up again his skinny boys that could be members of rock band. Celebrating youth and its subculture is the ethos of Saint Laurent, but it's also the likes of Comme Des Garçons, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy. Walter Van Beirendonck has played with it calling it explicit beauty. Loewe and Lanvin has portrayed darling boys who are the archetypes of sophistication.

ACNE STUDIOS focuses on the gender duality to have a discussion about masculinity. The silhouettes are slightly elongated and slim mixing sharp tailoring layered over boxy shorts or sporty skinny joggers. The pieces are all statements expressing the clash of gender. The long check top, the oversize patchwork jumper, the slogan giant scarves embody this idea of beauty. It's not femininity and not much femasculinity. "The idea was to give men what make them feel comfortable and secure. English tailoring, donkeys jackets, football. Then, there is the new silhouette of the sport leggings: I want to explore what it means to be masculine, and fit into what we understand as men's style", said Jonny Johansson, the creative designer of Acne Studios. You can find this kind of duality in our wardrobe. This long sleeveless tops, oversize coats or skinny denims. We are into this masculinity. People can find it awkward, but it's a very masculine way of dressing. Of course, there will always be people who will not understand. Those people are just not comfy with their own bodies. That's probably one explanation but frankly, we don't care. The question of beauty is an old debate and there will always be pros or cons. You should wear the clothes you love no matter what people may think.











1 commentaire: