The AW15-16 gender manifesto of PRADA and the collection itself have puzzled the fashion folk. Some have found it boring. The long manifesto given by the brand is even the subject of bad jokes on the internet and tumblr because it's way too long. too pretentious, too conceptual, too much modern art.... We are going to defend this collection for the sake of Miuccia and for our own too.
This collection is definitely a monument for Prada. They wouldn't have written a long manifesto if the collection was not so important. It's the first time Prada is doing this kind of conceptual introduction to a collection but that does not mean the past collections were less important. Every Prada collection focuses on a notion Miuccia wants to put a stress on. This time the message had to be clear and be understood. This AW15 collection gives an impression of déjà-vu nodding to the core of Pradasphere. Miuccia Prada is well-known for her notion of ugly chic/cool, naïf chic, hard chic, exoticism, eccentricity and this collection is dedicated mostly to femasculinity or the notion of gender and normcore (we don't like this word). In other words, how a wardrobe based upon sameness works both on a male and a female body. The designer is wondering whether beauty can be found in the most trivial pieces. This time, there are no OMG Prada looks, no excess. Everything looks normal and ordinary except for those ugly shoes. Is it dull ? Yes, it is. There is no Prada show. There's no extravagant decorum,but just a dark marble corridor enlightened for the runway. It's about disrupting from Act one and two of the low and profane and surreal body. It's also about re-editing classic for those who don't understand the bourgeois boring aesthetics and about going back to the good old 90's minimalism. The Prada's wardrobe is a mirror of the present time. She has opted for a utopian/distopian Gattaca world where gender is blurred. For which purpose? To sell more clothes without taking any risks? That's not the reason here. This collection is definitely bold disrupting with the idea of opulence people have been waiting for. We see a lot of rejection and rebellion behind this would be dullness. After all, normcore is a state of rebellion. Think of Gosha Rubchinskiy wondering why his clothes matter. That's the same idea with this Prada collection. Think of all these grey/black/navy sharp tailoring as clothes that go against the system. The luxury groups are fighting to produce the most expensive and unique goods to response to this never-ending demand for newness. What if brands like Prada focus on looking backward, stopping the race for just one collection and thinking. What if boring lifestyle is the new cool? What if uniformity is the definition of modernity? It's a perverse definition. After all, men and women are born equal. That's not so perverse now. That's the truth! Why not wear the same outfits?
These backstage pictures come from Dazed Digital and were taken by Virginia Arcaro.