"I've been thinking a lot about the social pressures to be 'normal' and conform.What it is to be alive, to breath, to consume and die. To chase empty idealisms. How destruction and chaos can create something pure and incredibly beautiful. I'm forming an army shrouded in the idealisms of everything we'll never have or never be", said MATHEW MILLER about his AW15 collection.

Like Christopher Shannon, Miller has brought chaos to the construction of his garments he has shredded it, ripped it, deconstructed it to create something new. Miller's beauty comes from the unexpected patchworks of fabrics to embellish a top, to rebuilt pants or to form this intriguing fringed lapel on the top of his sneakers or of the rawness and strength of the fabric which is a collaboration with Kvadrat (a top textile company specialized in furniture fabric). His garments have the label 'resistant' and they are really made to last meaning that they act like an armor, Miller has referred to his boys and girls as an army so his garments should be bulletproof from prejudices, injuries, narrow-mindedness, stupidities, discrimination, authoritarianism or any evil idealism. Miller has a unique dialogue with fashion conceptualizing everything he designs. There is no other way for him to create. Like Rei Kawakubo, he certainly takes his energy from the freedom of expression. His tailoring has got a lot of drama especially when it comes in the reds and the deep blues. The hybrid 'ziggy' top which is a fusion of a sweatshirt and a suit jacket is reedited in short sleeves embellished with a large pocket labelled 'resistant' on the zipper. We love his biker jackets made of leather or of the fabric from the Danish textile manufacturer and the fringed top as well. These jackets are another signature of Miller. They stand on the top of our wishlist for biker jackets we dream to own among the Comme des Garçons X Lewis Leathers, the Junya's, the Acne's and the Barrow's. Miller has a unique position in the industry, there are not so many independent brands out there. We hope he could continue to do what he stands for. He is a rebel with a cause and it's not a losing fight. There's room for designers like him who are still dreamers. Punk is really not dead! Live free with strong spirit! The majority is always wrong! Long live the one percenters like him!

Backstage pictures via DazedDigital by Virginia Arcaro

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