06/01/2015

THE NEW DEAL


For this article, we had in mind the Spring summer 2015 collections that had an impact in 2014. We have been thinking of Kawakubo's Red Chaos for Comme des Garçons, of Margiela Saucy Boys, of Ghesquiere's Retrofuture Travel at Louis Vuitton, of the Marc Jacobs Army, of Raf Simons Ravers and of Dior White Drama. These collections have already changed something by pushing the limits of creation. They have disrupted the face of the industry by establishing a new deal. It's clearly a New Dawn for these brands and for Loewe by J.W. Anderson too.

J.W.Anderson for Loewe has been one of the many surprises of 2014 we didn't expect. Obviously, it was another thoughtful move for LVMH which picked a newly established designer who has a unique dialogue with fashion, always looking for innovations no matter what people may think of his creations. There have been a lot of debates about his eponymous brand, about his definition of beauty. It's vain to consider beauty as an issue. We believe he has no definition of beauty as beauty is to be found everywhere.



Loewe has been rebooted from head to toe meaning from menswear to womenswear, from the luxury goods to the bags and accessories. Now, everybody wants something from Loewe. Thanks to J.W. Anderson this brand does mean something for people. Loewe is known for leather and its range of accessories. J DUBS (his nickname) focuses on the legacy of the Spanish brand to deliver a consistent wardrobe full of unexpected goods. He has successfully brought the 168 year old brand into 2015. People are tired of this lazy minimalism and the wave of hardcore normcore. We want to be surprised! We want to be excited by the clothes we are wearing. Minimalism and normcore are not just trends people can buy anywhere! Think of Jil Sander for minimalism and think of Gosha Rubchinskiy for normcore. These brands have something to say about them. It's their signature and more than mere trends.

Loewe is not for people who enjoy basics. J.W.Anderson doesn't do basics! Loewe is about boldness and creativity.  The designer edits classic with an unexpected vibe both for menswear and womenswear. He deconstructs all the Loewe alphabet. The pieces only look classic, but they are not. It's the new classic! There is this unisex dialogue for menswear mixing fragility and femasculinity. The Loewe woman is the archetype of perfection. There is this fragile femininity vibe that goes hand in hand with a powerful and strong side. J DUBS focuses on the use of skins and leather galore to empower the Loewe woman. There is a kind of shadow sexiness as some tops let expose a part of the body. The deconstruction of the anti-fashion  is at the core of the designer's creative process. He has updated the iconic Amazona 75 bag embellishing it with checked made of leather patchworks. He has launched new bags and objects emblazoned with the new logo. It's not a sleepy house any longer. Thanks to J.W.Anderson, Loewe is ready for the future!














The Women SS15 pictures come from Dazed Magazine and were taken by Jeremy Barniaud.
The Men SS15 Lookbook comes from the Loewe website.





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