The shadow of Ghesquière's 60's and 70's retrofuture is all over LCM. Some brands have been influenced by it delivering a wardrobe full of retro vibes but others do not follow trends. They are doing what really matters to them. These brands go on editing and adding new pieces to their wardrobes. The AW15 trash show collection of CHRISTOPHER SHANNON is clearly rejecting this idea of trends. Shannon disturbs with this collection exploring a radical beauty meaning pushing his creative limits forward. He has worked with Judy Blame for the D.I.Y jewelries and with Isamaya fFrench for the unconventional masks or hats made out of trash bags. He posted on his instagram a picture of a man wearing a coat made of layered trash bags with the label Couture AW15. Shannon has brought up chaos to his menswear referring to Punk aesthetics and to the British subculture. There is this idea of savage beauty and of a D.I.Y bricolage he has taken from his British peers (John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren or Alexander McQueen). There are also D.I.Y Graffiti and Agitprop cherished by the punks. Shannon has expressed so many things in this stunning collection but he has mostly expressed the difficulty of being a designer in the post internet era. One day you are in the industry, the next day you are out. The fear of designers is to become outdated, to lose their power of attraction and their magic creativity. Think of Meadham Kirchhoff who cannot present a collection this season, who cannot fulfill the demand of stockists, who are probably going to stop because of this industry expensive circus. The collage sweaters and shirts, the logo sweaters such as "broke"-"thanks for nothing"-broken"-"save me" embodys this riot feeling. The deconstructed denim jacket with the unzipped sleeves and the excess of logo embellishments on the sweaters are going hand in hand with this "i don't give a fuck" if I look scary, disturbing and ugly. The unbuttoned track pants flying like a large skirt allude to this idea of low and profane as much as the dramatic effect of Couture. The rest of the silhouettes have all this sporty vibe which is the trademark of Shannon. A boxy shirt paired with track trousers and Caterpillar boots have so much intensity, so much appeal, so much drama. Shannon really plays with trash and beauty mixing them together. It is a perverse game wondering if he is really serious. Shannon knows a collection is first a show no matter the message behind and the best way to deliver it is somehow to play with it. Thank you Christopher Shannon, this collection speaks to our rebel hearts. We love this collection. The message is understood!
These backstage pictures come from Dazed Digital and were taken by Virginia Arcaro.