23/01/2015

WHAT IS MASCULINITY?

There were no blood on the dancefloor, but real penises in the RICK OWENS AW2015-16 men's collection yesterday. Is it a kind of new revolution? Owens has been pushing the limits of the menswear wardrobe revealing part of the male body, showing bare legs, chests, tits and now some penises have to follow. What's the point at the end of the day? Owens doesn't need to provoke and be more radical than he already is by showing penises. His garments matter way more than a part of the body. This time it appears that he cannot talk about masculinity without avoiding what is one and perhaps the most flagrant (and trivial) expression of it. People couldn't ignore it because the clothes were draped such as they let free this part of the body like some fetishist glory holes. It's about a real and raw idea of beauty, bare masculinity as Owens is referring to the Greeks as a standard for his definition of beauty. A natural definition of beauty, not shocking nudity! Do not boys have penis? It has surprised us! (Can we say a very "ballsy"/bold collection ;D )We think of beauty as being low, profane, perverse as well as strong, beautiful and we dare say very sexy. The Rick Owens AW2015-16 wardrobe has a great influence not actually upon us but upon the whole industry gathering crowds of hardcore followers always clad in black. Think of all these upcoming brands with the black sporty signature, they all owe to Owens and they are thankful for what he has brought into the industry. The penis on the runway is not to be questioned. Rick Owens isn't looking for gimmick tricks making people talk about it. If penis are relevant for Owens, people could find it not offensive and they will understand. After all, people will first think about these long polo-neck dresses, of these long sock sneakers (his new collab with Adidas), of these long tank top dresses, of these handmade cable knit dresess and jumpsuits and of these stunning priceless coats and jackets. All these pieces were chaotic re-editions of a masculine wardrobe These pieces matter much more than a penis on a runway!   











Backstage pictures come from Dazed Digital by Lea Colombo

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