What brought Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier to MBMJ was an identity, an attitude that was lacking. People knew the difference between the two lines of Marc Jacobs, considering the diffusion line only by its definition : the cheaper prices etc.. or " I don"t have the budget to afford Marc Jacobs, but I can get something of the brand by jumping on the Marc By Marc Jacobs goods". Now, it's a true brand standing on its own, with its own individuality, uniqueness and aesthetics. The MBMJ girl is free, irreverent, bold and she has a lot of attitudes thanks to Luella and Katie who have injected youth culture references in each collection with the likes of motocross, 90's party-harders and now with this AW15 collection this girl goes for being "a child of the revolution" who is "born free" and "fighting for her power", expressing herself with a lot of strength because she wants her voice to be heard. Even on her clothes, she wants you to know that she has her own voice and wants you to hear it with such messages as "Suffragette", "Solidarity", "Our Future" or "Our Choice". These words are key words in our modern world, and particularly in these troubled times. The MBMJ girl defends her femininity no matter what. The designers talked about the blessed age of rebellion when you are young, restless and when you believe you are able to change the world. They said there wasn't something political behind this collection even if the track list of the collection was composed of M.I.A's Born Free, Public Enemy's Fight the Power, two artists whose message is obviously political. The British duet was looking for a track to empower their "socialist youth" girls. We think of all these feminist movements all around the world. This collection can definitely be seen as an ode, a tribute to these girls who are actually fighting for their freedom of speech, their femininity, for the sexuality they have chosen to have and assume. At the end of the day, it sounds very political in a way yet, it's not. It's such a shame that women still have to fight for their rights and prove they are equal to men in this post internet era. It's a shame too that women have to use their beauty as a weapon to win. So hail to the riot girls who are definitely alive and have to carry on their battles!
Pictures by Lea Colombo for Dazed