We hope that the persons attending the Milan Fashion Week shows are flexible enough to do the splits between the very good and the really bad. Yesterday was just another proof.
First of all and because you should always start with the positive points, we can't reproach Jeremy Scott with being a king in communication. He knows how to make people talk about his collections/shows and is a master when it comes to buzz. In the run-op to his shows, Instagram & Twitter are inundated with Moschino hashtags and pics of the set, the invitations, the goodies...etc His arrival at Moschino was perhaps the best thing that could have happened to this brand that was slowly but surely falling into a long and endless sleep. His ability to twist fashion with mass-culture stuff is genius whether you like it or not. We have to acknowledge it just like the fact that he has succeeded in collaborating with the right persons for him. The exuberant, excessive and too much Fashion stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele is a reference in her domain and both their universes are very well matched. Katy Perry is also perhaps the best ambassador of Moschino with her Pop, zingy style.
Unfortunately, all these good points also have their other side and though it's Scott's third collection (if we except the Pre-Fall) at the head of the Italian house, it is starting to struggle. When he was appointed creative designer for Moschino and even before for his eponymous brand, Jeremy Scott's aim was to oppose the minimalist wave that was way too boring for him. Fashion should be fun, colourful, bling-bling, flimsy. In other words, Fashion should stop being cerebral to be a game. It's honourable in a way but is it still relevant? Is minimalism still the major trend in Fashion? We're not quite sure (minimalism in its purest form is dead) and Mr Scott should have a look at what other designers create, it would certainly give him an insight of what is truly relevant in Fashion nowadays. When the first Moschino/McDonald's was presented, we were not huge fans of it (is it a surprise?), it seemed too simple and too easy but now, with a certain perspective, this collection seemed genius in a way. He managed to capture something that was, at that particular moment, in the spirit of the times. This whole Fast Food/ Fast Fashion was that season at the core of the Chanel and Anya Hindmarch collections. It was completely relevant and Jeremy Scott had felt this trend and succeeded in injecting it properly in his clothes. At that time, he could be seen as a genuine CREATIVE Director. But what about now? Now, it just falls flat. This whole sense of provocation that's in the Moschino DNA is going the wrong way and absolutely nothing is provocative in these collections and especially in this latest one. Dear Mr Scott, please think about Prada and its tribute to Rainer Werner Fassbinder AW14 collection or about the latest Rick Owens Menswear show or also watch the latest Christopher Kane's collection with his very In the Realm of the Senses dresses. This is provocation. Ok you don't play in the same category but learn from these masters. Proposing a collection inspired by the 80s & 90s Hip Hop scene with graffiti dresses (something he found in the archives), puffa jackets, gold chains galore (Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele's trademark that she uses and abuses), denim, Moschino tee-shirts and the most avant-garde clothes of the collection: tee-shirt dresses with Looney Tunes characters such as Bugs Bunny, Daffy Duck (Lord knows we love Daffy!) and their friends! Certainly, this have never been done and if you go to a Zara, H&M or Topshop, you will never find such tee-shirts... Hem Hem... So, what remains if you take off all these boring elements? A certain sense of bling bling (the same you'll find in any editorials styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele...) but even this is not actual and seems like a bad caricature of The Bling Bling Style. Who in the Hip Hop, Rn'B world still loves to dress this way? Nicki Minaj? She prefers Alexander Wang. Rihanna? She's more into Balmain. Beyoncé? Can you really imagine Beyoncé wearing a Bugs Bunny tee-shirt? Maybe Blue Ivy but not Beyoncé. Even Wiz Khalifa wears Saint Laurent now. This idea of bling bling is so outdated that it almost makes us laugh. Ok, if you have money and want to look like a rapper mockery for a cheap carnaval, buy Moschino and don't forget the gold chains but if you are smarter enough, please try something else.
|Pic via NOWFASHION|
Everything in Moschino is deceptive and disappointing. Even the invitation of the show saying "Are you ready to bear?" promised us something that never happened. Ok, we knew that it would have a link with the new TOY fragrance but we were expecting more, something harder, better, stronger, more provocative and powerful. What happened yesterday was not Fashion in its noblest form. Seriously, Jeremy Scott, a skirt and a crop top on a runway, is it really Fashion? Or is it just something that you will find and purchase in every fast Fashion retailer? We are the first to say that Fashion should be fun and shouldn't be taken too seriously but here this is just Fashion for Dummies.