Thanks to the Impossible Conversations exhibition we have learnt what Miuccia Prada owns to Elsa Schiaparelli and especially the similarities between these two geniuses, how they have managed to the face of the industry forever. Mrs Prada owns a lot to Schiaparelli but also to Saint Laurent whose influence in fashion is limitless and timeless. Think of him as an absolute modernist as he is the one behind the actual shape of the industry by inventing ready-to-wear. Her AW15 collection is full of Saint Laurent vibes from the 50's and the 60's which were a golden era for fashion. These decades are special for Prada, they are integral part of its DNA and at the core of the Pradasphere. Somehow, she has delivered one of the most modernist manifestos through this pastel wardrobe of perfection, refusing to go forward but rather looking backward to establish a modern and futuristic dialogue with fashion and with her hardcore fans & beloved customers.
Miuccia has gone for giving extreme perfection and hyper femininity, wondering if there's an ironical message behind these neo bourgeoise women reminding us of an over the top version of desperate housewives. Does Miuccia think about her customers when she is into her creative process? Actually we don't go for this hypothesis. That's not a fact she uses. Each collection is like a new start by disrupting with what she did last season. Obviously, it's the facade of the bourgeoisie as it's just a reference. What she always wants to bring is a certain transgression and radical ideas. Think of the bizarre sneakers and loafers, of the bags giving birth to another bag and of the surreal styling and fabrics. What do you think of a neoprene dress over a knit sweater shirt with leather gloves that go with a trousers? What do you think of a strange printed leather jacket matching with an ostrich knee length skirt? What do you think of Dali-esque embroideries on an evening pastel dress? We are into this surreal body Miuccia is implying to fashion.
Photographs by Virginia Arcaro via DazedDigital