14/04/2015

AGGRESSIVELY WEARABLE

There is a brand new generation of Russian designers who is shaking the Fashion system. People like Gosha Rubchinskiy, Tigran Avetisyan or Dasha Selyanova (the creator of ZDDZ London) have disrupted with the established codes saying that Fashion must be Couture, traditional, total look, in a word: boring. This new generation wants to speak for all the cool kids who love Fashion but in another way, in a new way, without forgetting about their Slav roots. Their purpose is to show what is Russian fashion nowadays far from the usual & dated clichés of the folk Babushka, they want to talk to the post-Soviet generation who wants to mix, clash & imagine a new future for its country. For us, these designers are clearly the ambassadors of something exciting going on in Russia with their own vision of what must be streetwear: punk clothes with a soul for modern heroes standing for themselves.

ZDDZ London is a brand founded by Dasha Selyanova in 2011 and a perfect mix of Russia & London. But what is Russian in her clothes? The taste for slogans (here bold slogans on the clothes such as Zero Tolerance, Open as Usual, Danger, High Tension, Quiet Life...) that are much more than words on clothes here. These words have a social & political context that cannot be denied. For instance, when you are a bit aware of what is going on in Russia nowadays, the words ZERO TOLERANCE can only make us/you react and reflect. The use of the colour red is also in the popular imagination something going hand in hand with the Soviet era. The designer is obsessed with this idea of updating and taking these Russian things into a brand new level and turning them into something more playful and punk (the London side). 
The SS15 ZDDZ London collection which the designer defines as "Hot urban chick meets London clad cyclist" is all about an irreverent sporty feeling. Dasha Selyanova redefines what is sportswear by giving it a touch of femininity (the female body is clearly uncovered and sexualized) and emphasizing its bad taste side (spandex turtlenecks, visors, loose jogger pants...). This is something proper to this Russian new gen, transforming the ugly and the cheap into something beautiful and valuable, into something unique and highly desirable. The result is an aggressively cool silhouette redefining the value of things and speaking to a lot more than just girls with its androgynous vibes that make this collection even more modern (if it's possible) and even more connected to what is going on in our today's world.













The Runway pictures come from VFiles
All the others are from the ZDDZ London Facebook


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