Maison Margiela is a current obsession considering the number of posts we have written about it. This growing number of posts is explained by the appointment of John Galliano at the head of all the collections of all the numerous lines. Since his arrival we haven't been able to stop posting about every little step he has made. Actually these steps are definitely getting bigger and bigger starting with the Artisanal, the Ready-to-Wear, the Avant-Première and finally the Menswear. We have been waiting for this collection since he has taken the control over the Margiela lines, wondering what will happen? Throughout all our previous posts we have been worried and excited about the future of Maison Margiela. After all, it's all about what will remain and what will disappear with Galliano. Is he going to keep the trademarks? What does Margiela mean in the post internet era we are experiencing? Maison Margiela will always be Maison Margiela even if the Martin has been erased. That's one thing for sure. The other important thing is that Galliano and Martin Margiela have always tried to create clothes that express a strong identity worshiping the past, the present and the future with an interesting and unique point of view. So we are sure that Maison Margiela is in good hands now.
About the Spring Summer 2016 Men's collection presented today in Paris, Galliano has established a solid "ground zero" manifesto focusing on a sharp and sophisticated tailoring to portray the new Margiela man. Galliano understands what is the foundation of the Margiela men's wardrobe. The atelier skills on tailoring are essential to twist, recycle and deliver a wardrobe reflecting the past, the present and what is going to be the future. The show features a lot of long line coats, suits, tailored jackets and trousers from navy to beige, burgundy to white. There are also some serious trench coats, a-line jackets and sleeveless coats. We love the combo of a monochrome suit with its matching overcoat. For instance, the navy blue sleeveless jacket paired with a silver metallic trousers is just to die for. The terracotta trench coat worn over the bronze suit is also an outstanding and elegant look. The nude painted t-shirts were another key moment of the collection. Galliano and his team have twisted this trademark basic wrapping it with a biker jacket around the waist. There are other versions of this silhouette with a trench coat wrapped around a biker vest. The ending looks keep on haunting us just like the wrapped one. For instance, we are obsessed with the sleeveless coat worn over a nude painted t-shirt and a kind of belt-trousers layered over trousers. Galliano knows how to dissect and to built a look from classic tailoring. That's what he has showed with this first men's collection for Maison Margiela.
Pics via Nowfashion
Words by Yann Sackville West