The launch of the Kenzo film/ad campaign by Gregg Araki is here to remind me/us how beautiful the AW15 collection is. In this short film, Araki is portraying young people who seem to come from 'his Doom Generation' wearing some pieces of the collection. This collaboration reminds us how Araki has a unique vision to depict teenagers/young adults facing a chaotic world.
Le lancement de la campagne & de la vidéo Kenzo réalisée par Gregg Araki arrive à point nommé pour nous rappeler à quel point la collection Automne Hiver 2015 est magnifique. Dans ce court métrage, Araki dresse le portrait de jeunes qui semblent tout droit sortis de sa 'Doom Generation' et qui portent certaines pièces de la collection. Cette collaboration nous rappelle combien Araki est doué pour dépeindre le combat quotidien des adolescents/jeunes adultes dans un monde chaotique.
The A/W15-16 wardrobe is full of references: from military uniforms to outerwear, from the fabrics to the colour palette. I can imagine people wearing this collection in a dystopian world challenging issues of overpopulation and economic & climate crisis! I'm sorry but that's the world we are living in! This collection perfectly fits within our post-internet era! Global warming and environment protection are close issues we are just ignoring. Humberto Leon and Carole Lim, the designers at the head of Kenzo, are talking about individuality, utility, survival and protection for their latest Men's collection but they also want to celebrate some universal concepts such as messages, signs and inscriptions. All these notions are articulated throughout the collection. Their awareness regarding these environment issues knows a precedent in their work thinking of the Spring Summer 2014 "No Fish No Nothing" manifesto! That's not really a surprise they are influenced by everything around them and by what's going on (& wrong) in the world. Humberto and Carole focus on creating resistance pieces proposing a silhouette with a lot of layered options to stay warm no matter the weather. Thus, there is a whole range of utilitarian outerwear: the parkas, the bombers, the jackets are made out of nylon or wool fabrics and come in orange or green featuring ribbed wool fingerless gloves for more efficiency. I can't keep my eyes off the blue striped over-coat looking like a blanket and perfect for wearing one of these scribble-printed denim jackets underneath. The layered effect is just stunning, bringing contrast and mixing together two prints that don't match. There's also the knitwear using voluminous intarsia fabrics featuring patchwork of colors and textures. Humberto and Carol are playing on the idea of deconstruction to create and give a new dimension to the knitwear pieces. I love the idea of the fusion of a knitwear and a sweater. The "Love, Kenzo, Respect, Other, Irony" knit-sweater is a showstopper piece like the one with the scribble print and the one with the furry letters. The survivalist vibe is also embodied with the accessories made of wool (the arm sleeves, the finger-less gloves) and of leather (the boots, the shoes and the twisted ribbon bags).
Summer has just begun but the Kenzo A/W15 pieces are already landing into the stores. Some pieces of this collection are part of my A/W15 wishlist so you can imagine my excitement to finally see them (touch them and even wear them) in stores this week when I'll be in Paris!
L'été vient de commencer et pourtant les pièces Automne Hiver de Kenzo arrivent déjà en boutique. Certaines de ces pièces sont sur ma wishlist, vous pouvez donc imaginer sans peine mon excitation de les voir (les toucher et même les porter) cette semaine quand je serai à Paris!
Pics by Fernando Uceda via Dazed Digital
Words by Yann Sackville West