SPITFIRE Sunglasses
NIKE Huarache Sneakers



1/ The Collection: Marni

Pic by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed

2/ The Casting: Raquel, Natasha, Liya, Edie, Anna, Mariacarla & MORE @Versace

Pics via Vogue.com

3/ The Story: Lords of Dogtown @MSGM

Pic by Jason Lloyd Evans for I-D

4/ The Setting: Let's go to the Car Wash @Moschino

Pic by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed

5/ The One To Buy: This look (& many More!) @MarcoDeVincenzo

Pic via Vogue.com

6/ The Model: Lineisy Montero @Marni

Pic via Vogue.com

7/ The Manifesto: "A call to all women to stop listening to our demons and outer detractors and just get rid of everything which stops us from doing what we really want" @Versace

Pics by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed

8/ The Talk Of The Town: The styling, the accessories, the Absence of Miuccia @Prada

Pics by Lonny Spence for LOVE

9/ The StandOut Look: A Romantic leather look @Gucci

Pic by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed

10/ Expect the Unexpected: A Victoriana comeback @Fendi

Pics by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed

Made by Charles Margueritte



I love strong women. Who doesn't? They are the most fascinating history characters and make pretty good action movie roles too. What if the star of Alien were a man? It would have be far less interesting. And if Thelma & Louise were called Robert & Jack? I'd rather not imagine... So, of course, I do love the latest Versace collection presented a few days ago at the Milan Fashion Week. Backstage of her runway show, Donatella Versace told the journalists that her Spring Summer 2016 collection is "a call to all women to stop listening to [their] inner demons and outer detractors, and just get rid of everything which stops [them] from doing what [they] really want". This collection is an ode to strong women, to independent women, to women with balls if I may say so.

Walking to the beat of Transition by Violet and friends, a special anthem created for International Women's Day, the models' pack led by supermodel (and way too rare) Raquel Zimmermann are wearing outfits to fight for their rights, for their equality, for their recognition. I have to admit that, at first sight, I was disturbed by this collection. It was at the same time very Versace (the best girls, the fierce look upon their faces, their wild & determined gait) and far from the usual aesthetics (the body-conscious dresses, the beyond sexy attitude & clothes). It's as if Donatella wanted to talk to more customers, to widen her vision and spread her message further. The first silhouettes are jackets (half military, half safari) firmly belted on the waist in khaki or camel (the prevailing colours of the collection). Here, it is all about clothes to feel comfortable but not in a loose & sloppy way. Women should have a complete freedom of movement into these clothes: for instance, the first look of Natasha Poly is composed of a khaki dress (with stars all around the collar, a tribute to Riccardo Tisci & Givenchy?) and a camel safari jacket almost looking like a man's one, with several pockets, useful to put what you usually put in a bag. Is the safari jacket the new it bag? This kind of utilitarian jackets can be spotted all along the collection in the form of leather jackets or more traditional ones but most of the time in boxy shapes. Donatella Versace has imagined for next Summer a collection full of daywear looks such as the classy pinstripe ones: here a jacket worn as a dress with frills on one side of the waist, there a crop shirt worn with a boxy jacket and a pretty sexy skirt showing almost totally one leg, here again, a man's shirt worn as a dress and feminized with a large and massive belt or with the less formal looks composed of loose pants & sweater or bra tops + jackets in the palette of the collection or printed in a print that is turning into a Versace recurring theme. This collection is all about the encounter of sportswear with tailoring (mini-skirt + crop sweater + crop jacket or a total printed look composed of loose pants + sweater) and a mix of masculinity & femininity. Here, mixing bold animal prints (zebra & leopard prints in pop colours) is creating a viral visual impact and is perfect to empower these women even more and perhaps to reveal their savage beauty! Never forget that the Versace woman is never too sexy, never too bold, never too powerful: this is definitely the Versace signature! So are the last looks, the genuine Versace touch, almost reminding us of JLo's iconic 1999 dress: raw-edged chiffon gowns with cut out details revealing some part (the best parts!) of the body. With these showstopper pieces, that I have to admit are a bit glam rock (the black colour, the shiny and sheer fabrics) and effortlessly glamourous, feminine power is expressed in the best way and Donatella's point is clearly reached.

Pictures by Jason Lloyd-Evans for I-D

Words by Charles Margueritte [with a little help from Yann Sackville-West]



AGI & SAM Shirt


Links à la Mode, September 24
SPONSOR: Amazon's Shopbop BLK DNM, Line & Dot, Ulla Johnson, Chan Luu, Three Dots, A Line Skirts, Black Flare Jeans, Fringe Booties, Mini Bags, Men's Theory



Fashion should not be taken seriously and Jeremy Scott is reminding this to us collection after collection for both his eponymous brand and for Moschino. Scott & Moschino are the perfect couple, sharing a mutual love affair for recycling Pop Culture and making statements with the art of diversion. The fun, the extravagance, the spectacular, the bad taste, the irreverence, the provocation and the intention to disrupt fashion by copying others are the ethos of the Italian brand founded by Franco Moschino who used to say that "a great copy is better than a bad original". Scott is following Moschino's paths using slogans like weapons that are deranging and entertaining the industry. I've never been a huge fan of Scott's new era at Moschino and I've kept on questioning his concept and his creations, wondering if there's anything new. But, Scott is not responsible for my sealed attitude toward his creations. Maybe it's only because Franco Moschino has already gone too far. His legacy to fashion is beyond the idea of building a successful business. The old school ads are proving he was also selling ideas to fashion. Both the social awareness and the humanitarian passionate vibes of the campaigns have, according to me, no precedent in this industry. His bold messages taking the form of protest art have changed the way of making fashion. Accepting the creative direction of Moschino was not a easy decision for Scott. He is trying to re-invent a brand known for recycling. Do you think it's easy? I don't! But Jeremy Scott is a resourceful designer. He knows how to capture our modern era with Pop Culture weapons. His Spring Summer 2016 collection is putting Moschino in a under-construction context with models coming from a giant Car Wash. Scott is delivering a wardrobe of excess because too much is never enough, because fashion is all about a never ending celebration of beauty, because we need more excitement in our trivial/boring life (I'm talking about my life these days), because sticks and stones may break our bones (but words will never kill us), because these clothes are making people in a good mood, because I can feel the good vibes on the catwalk with the models (for instance, Anna Cleveland) entertaining and interacting with the guests. Sometimes, I don't need more than a dynamic show to carry me away. I will not buy the clothes but I've spent a delightful moment. Thank you  Mr Scott!

La mode ne devrait pas être prise trop au sérieux et Jeremy Scott nous le rappelle collection après collection, que ce soit pour ça marque éponyme ou pour Moschino. Scott & Moschino forment le couple idéal, partageant le même amour pour le recyclage de la Pop culture. Le fun, l'extravagance, le spectaculaire, le mauvais goût, l'irrévérence, la provocation et l'intention de perturber le monde de la mode en copiant les autres composent la philosophie de cette marque italienne fondée par Franco Moschino qui avait l'habitude de dire qu'"une bonne copie vaut toujours mieux qu'un mauvais original". Scott poursuit donc dans cette voie en utilisant des slogans comme des armes qui dérangent et divertissent l'industrie. Je n'ai jamais été très fan de la nouvelle ère Scott chez Moschino et souvent je me suis demandé si son concept et ses créations apportent réellement quelque chose de nouveau. Cependant, je dois reconnaître que Scott n'est pas le seul coupable si je pense ça de la marque, c'est peut-être aussi parce que Franco Moschino est déjà allé trop loin. Ce qu'il a laissé à la mode va plus loin que l'idée de construire un business qui a du succès. Ses vieilles campagnes de pub prouvent qu'il voulait aussi vendre des idées à la mode. Les consciences qu'ils tentaient d'éveiller et cette fibre humanitaire de ses campagnes ne connaissent, selon moi, aucun précédent dans cette industrie. Ses messages forts qui prenaient la forme d'art protestataire ont changé la façon de faire de la mode. Accepter le poste de directeur artistique chez Moschino n'a pas été une décision facile à prendre pour Scott. Il doit essayer de réinventer une marque qui est connue pour recycler. Vous croyez que c'est facile? Moi pas! Mais Jeremy Scott est un designer plein de ressources, il sait comment capter l'air du temps grâce à ses armes Pop. Sa collection Printemps Eté 2016 place Moschino dans un décor en construction avec des mannequins venant d'une station de lavage de voitures géante. Scott livre ici une garde-robe excessive parce qu'après tout trop n'est jamais assez, parce que la mode ce n'est qu'une célébration de la beauté qui n'en finit pas, parce qu'on a besoin de plus d'excitation dans nos vies ennuyeuses/triviales (je parle de ma vie ces derniers temps), parce que ces vêtements donnent le sourire aux gens, parce que je ressens les bonnes vibrations venant du podium où les mannequins (Anna Cleveland en tête) divertissent et interagissent avec les invités. Parfois, je n'ai pas besoin de plus qu'un show plein d'énergie pour m'emporter ailleurs. Je n'achèterai pas les vêtements mais j'ai passé un très bon moment. Merci Mr Scott!

Ad Campaigns pics via Pinterest and Backstage pics via Dazed Digital by Virginia Arcaro

Words by Yann Sackville-West