Simone Rocha is no longer the upcoming or the one to watch designer because these adjectives are not enough to describe who she really is. She is now an established designer and an eponymous brand opening recently her first store on Mount Street in London near big names like Céline and Christopher Kane. She may be young and restless but she's part of the ones who turn this industry upside down. She has already achieved so many things, building a business with feminist ideas because that's all she cares about, believes in, breathes and fights for.

Her Spring Summer 2016 collection is the result of a trip to Japan, especially in Kyoto that inspired her to create this soft bondage wardrobe. Japan, bondage, Nobuyoshi Araki and this time Kyoto are references that keep on coming back collection after collection. Yet, that doesn't mean she repeats herself. Somehow, she always finds new perspective to portray young women who are confronting their femininity. Her collections talk about femininity, giving it different definitions, exploring new points of view because there is not one single definition to express beauty. Diversity is what makes things exciting. How to bring up ultra femininity, fragility without reducing women into objects of desire? How to put forward the naked body with all the respect and attention women deserve? All these intentions are summed up in these silhouettes. There is always a perverse dimension and a sweet and poetic provocation as well. The dresses are covering the body, the lightweight fabric are exposing it. The ropes, the knots and the straps are shaping the dresses and re-defining the body but they are also embellishing it. Flower button prints are cut into skirts and dresses reminding me of Louise Bourgeois sculpture named Les Mamelles, producing a hard yet soft appearance on the catwalk. Lightweight fabrics like sheer and tulle to caress and silk satin to build & structure. Her tailoring looks like pieces of art made of voluminous patches of silk satin fastened by knots and bows. Plastic is hand-woven to build a transparent net tank top, a fabric which is one of her signatures. With this collection, Simone Rocha is exposing a not so controversial feminist manifesto balancing between a pure expression of beauty and a perverse seduction.

Pics by Fernando Uceda via The Love Magazine

Words by Yann Sackville-West

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