Can you hear it? The big machinery is coming! Yes, the big Fashion Weeks are coming to New York, London, Milan and Paris and will bring water to our mill during several weeks. These big Fashion Weeks are essential to set all the trends that will influence each and every one of us in the future but let's not forget that there are other cities in the world where Fashion is given an important place starting with Denmark and Sweden. You know how much we love these countries and our stay in Copenhagen & Stockholm a few months ago will always remain in our minds & hearts. So, after our review of the Cheap Monday SS16 collection, it's time for us to talk about the Soul of Scandinavian Fashion, Ann Sofie Back who is also, by the way, the designer of the Cheap Monday collections.
We can't help talking about Ann-Sofie Back in one way or another on W.A.R.M. and we think she is not enough considered as a major designer while according to us, her influence on Fashion is huge. She started her "Nordic Impact" in London at the beginning of the 2000s then came back to Stockholm to become the spearhead of Swedish Fashion. Going back to her country could be seen as a regress but her collections have never ceased to amaze us, to surprise us, to captivate us. For us, Ann-Sofie Back is the soul of Scandinavian Fashion. When we got to Stockholm for our Spring holidays, we absolutely had to visit her Sample Sale to buy some iconic pieces, essential pieces that have marked us and that are now major pieces in our wardrobes.
To present her Spring Summer 2016 collection, the designer filmed herself in a location nearby the beach. This video, you can watch here, is all about the nostalgia of sweet days spent by the sea. Abstract shapes, colours and nice memories are all mixed up in this pretty short movie. Just like Phoebe Philo who is the Céline woman, Ann-Sofie Back is the Back Woman. She designs clothes she will be able to wear. In this video, she is wearing pieces & accessories from her newest collection. The accessories are perfect symbols of this collection: the B of Back is everywhere, in the abstract shapes of the bags & sunglasses or on the bracelets/rings like lucky charms. This collection is all about holidays and reminds us of these charming days, our feet in the sands, admiring the sea (sigh). We are not in the Winter is Coming mood yet! We want this kind of memories, we want to eat an ice cream, we want to laugh in the waves, we want sand in our shoes....and so on and so forth. Just like Lana, all we wanna do is get high by the beach. Just like Ann-Sofie Back, in holidays instead of being at the Stockholm Fashion Week (at least this is what she is saying in this video), we wanna give up everything and just leave, in a place where the only horizon is the sea.
The Back silhouette for next Summer is very sculptural with abstract shapes and at the same time, very laid back. There is a huge sense of nostalgia in the choice of colours (colours of the sky/ clouds/sand) and 70s colours (ochre, green and natural tones) and at the same time, we can feel retro futuristic vibes everywhere especially thanks to the structured shapes. The clothes have rounded slits in the back, in the front. The jackets have big, wide, rounded lapels. Skirts are exaggerated, like mermaid tails: black and shiny. The trousers are fitted having rounded slits on the front. There are a lot of different proportions depending on the pieces, exaggerated shapes giving a modern and futuristic point of view even if the fabrics have these vintage/70's vibes (corduroy, patent leather, ribbed knitwear, lace...). There is also a 90's touch if you consider the styling with the layering of a dress over trousers. At the same time, the collection is looking up to the past and is an ode to modernism, giving another reality and perspective to a wardrobe of playfulness and extravagance. This collection is definitely a gallery of avant-garde pieces. The patent leather fabric is here to help twist and sex up the collection with showstopper pieces like a skirt and a dress that both have this big rounded cut-out slit on the front or like the stunning wrapped trench coat made out of the same daring fabric. The corduroy is cut to create bustier dress, high-waist knot trousers and a wrapped coat with cut-outs on the sleeves and in the front. Take also a look at the ribbed knitwear jumpers that have one asymmetrical collar pined with a metallic button to contrast with the rest of the fabric like the ribbed dress having these patchwork insertions. Absolutely gorgeous! The shirts also undergo the same treatment since they are cut according to the standards of the collection i.e having this rounded slits very high on the back. The cloud prints are cut to create trousers, skirt, tee-shirt-dress or scarf to add lightweight vibe and to give another dimension to the collection; all these pieces are layered together to create this modern wardrobe for a woman on vacation. This woman surely has got a lot of options to twist her holidays or her everyday life! And what about wearing a simple bustier top over one wide rounded slits skirt and accessorizing this outfit with a giant "Balenciaga-ish" hat, some abstract sunnies, sandals (or just bare feet) and the sand rounded bag, sitting on a big cloud-print scarf and listening to Lana Del Rey's High By The Beach? A dream. A hope. A certainty. This will happen one day.
Pictures via Style.com
Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte