MM6 Maison Margiela has been the last line to be rebooted since John Galliano's appointment. Changing the venue from the New York Fashion Week (#NYFW) to the London one (#LFW) is a way to re-think and re-build the ethos of the Maison Margiela diffusion line. The goal is clear: finding a new vibe and a new energy in London to establish a label that will speak to younger Maison Margiela customers, no matter the gender.
The Spring Summer 2016 collection literally embodies this reinvention, fusion & re-appropriation of the streetwear codes and youth subcultures. A disruptive mood illustrated by a casting of boys and girls with a lot of attitudes. These party harder boys and girls wearing sequins like they don't care remind me that the London clubbing scene is not dead yet no matter what's going on these days. That's the energy the anonymous collective of designers headed by Galliano were looking for. That's why changing the venue meant so much to Galliano because of his special relationship with London. One can only feel this unique atmosphere in London because there's literally no place like that on Earth. The collection is somehow a portrait of the city Galliano loves: low and profane, diverse, young and restless, arrogant and provocative, trash, free, futuristic and exuberant. Sequins are inevitable to pump up the volume of all the silhouettes. They made a big appearance on the catwalk in high top socks, long sleeve gloves, panties, scarves, tank top and bias-cut dress. Print fabrics looking like the ones from t-shirts one could buy in a thrift store are recycled according to the MM6 standards to create dresses, swimwear and underwear to twist an evening outfit. Obviously, it's a re-appropriation of some iconic youth culture staples turned into showstopper pieces. They also use trivial elements from everyday life such as bumbags, plastics and foils to drape tops, dresses, arm sleeves, skirts, trousers and jackets. These low and profane fabrics displayed on the garments give more uniqueness and personality. I cannot wear all the pieces like the styling is suggesting but I love how they are layering something kind of industrial with something kind of basic. The less is more pieces like the oversize t-shirts and the fusion of jeans with trousers are streetwear basics everyone should own. There is a new perspective to accessories that are questioning the value of an everyday life object. Transparent handbags are exposing their contents just like plastic bags used to carry the trash.
With this SS16 collection, John Galliano and his team have succeeded in improving streetwear staples and youth subcultures to turn them into a collection that is far from being déjà-vu.
Pic via Vogue.com
Words by Yann Sackville-West