05/10/2015

AESTHETIC FASCINATION

We have told you about our Fashion obsessions that are as numerous as eclectic. In our Pantheon and in our minds, a lot of designers, clothes and accessories are merging and are giving us dreams for years. Yet, one particular designer has a special place because of his vision, his references and his creations. This designer never ceases to amaze us, dazzle us and puzzle us. This genius is Jonathan Anderson and to be honest, there are not enough synonyms of Beauty to define his work both for his eponymous brand (J.W.Anderson) and for Loewe, the Spanish brand, that, like a phoenix, rose from its ashes a few seasons ago thanks to the designer's unique understanding of what Fashion should be. We are literally fascinated by his work and by the research he makes to ensure his designs will be unique, avant-garde and intensely beautiful. You may not find his Fashion beautiful, perhaps you think it is weird with odd shapes and disturbing prints but we think the Irish designer is doing an outstanding work to always put his creations in another dimension with its own codes and its own aesthetics.

His Loewe Spring Summer 2016 collection presented a few days ago in Paris is definitely no exception and is just pure pleasure for the eyes. Each and every look is a complex construction of wearable pieces with experimental ones, of low and profane fabrics (PVC for instance) with the most precious ones such as linen, silk, suede & of course leather (after all Loewe is a Fashion House specialized in leather goods) and of the most incredible accessories that not only put a final touch to the silhouettes but that give them an aura & a power that, according to us, find no comparison. Watching a Loewe collection is a genuine experience, it is like going to a museum and watching works of art living & walking right before you.

LOEWE SS16 Ad Campaign by Steven Meisel starring Raquel Zimmermann
On the Loewe website, as an introductory note to this SS16 collection, the emphasis is put on the contrasts triggered by the silhouettes. Thus, "hard meets soft", "synthetics confront rawness", "normalcy becomes extraordinary" as it is said but by looking at the clothes we could add "tradition meets modernity" ( the printed canard jumper paired with transparent trousers) or "future meets sophisticate" (the broken mirror appliqué giving texture to a ribbed sweater and also use to embellish trousers). To Vogue.com, Jonathan Anderson declared backstage of his show that "he was interested in leather techniques and innovation [ and] he wanted to work with that and sharpen the edge", that is quite honourable regarding the traditions of the noble Spanish house. The huge savoir-faire of the Loewe team is here put to good use to upgrade the leather pieces and to give a new perspective to them; the leather outfits are turned into showstopper pieces such as the suede trench coats, the patchwork tracksuit uniforms or the leather dresses. Taking the ethos of the brand and bringing it into the 21st (or even 22nd century!) with low and profane fabrics like PVC or plastic to produce a second skin effect and a dramatic effect on the catwalk as well! With the designer's vision, all of a sudden, everything is turning into an object of desire, which is producing an instant and quasi-violent attractiveness. Have a look at the Tassle Top and skirt with silver applications, they are perfect to twist & sex up a classic outfit! It seems Jonathan Anderson  had a lot of fun playing with the logo & the monogram of the brand as well. The name is becoming a pattern, a print, a graphic effect and is apposed on such wardrobe staples as bomber jackets, trousers or bags. Though very cerebral (a characteristic of all Anderson's collections), this SS16 collection is also extremely playful. Take a look at all the accessories, a genuine cabinet of curiosities, perfect for boosting the sales! Of course, the puzzle bag, the it bags of these last seasons, that undergoes a transparency treatment (an absolute must-have!) or that finds itself reduced to give a new dimension and mini => less expensive => more customers. But here, the real objects of desire are the playful jewelries: the goldfish necklaces (already on sale here), the duck brooches, the bamboo belts and bracelets. Jonathan Anderson is giving us a biology lesson and with such a teacher, we can only watch and learn! We could also speak about the mirror clip earring or the perspex bracelet that remind us of the whole transparency of the collection, for a sleek, shiny, pure & clean effect. And what to say about the gold bracelet chains that literally catch the eye and lead it to the pieces of the collection, the bags. After all, Jonathan Anderson said he wanted "the bags to articulate the looks".

Pictures by Virginie Khateeb for Dazed
In Fashion, everything must go fast and we are under the impression that Jonathan Anderson is going even faster than Fashion. Look! Even before his Spring Summer 2016 collection was presented, the ad campaign starring supermodel Raquel Zimmermann had already been out! Designing 10 collections a year (for his eponymous brand & for Loewe) doesn't stop him from being so productive, innovative and inventive. Jonathan Anderson is an über-designer, the leader of a new generation, the man behind our most exuberant Fashion dreams!



Words by Charles Margueritte & Yann Sackville West



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