The last time I wrote about Sacai it was in the form of a love letter like a fan would write to his idol. This time, I will not do the same. No matter the form of this post I will let the words coming out, expressing what I've thought of her Spring Summer 2016 collection. It's always hard to find the right words that could depict the magic behind the works of art created by Chitose Abe, but don't worry, I will try to stay focused!
Chitose Abe knows what she wants and her closest assistant named Daisuke Gemma told Vogue.com that this Spring Summer 2016 collection was the result of a working hard process. Chitose is not a deconstructionist designer but she is playing with fabrics to produce new classics. However, this time she is letting the chaos emerging from the waist cut-outs, the clash of fabrics and the mix of colors and prints. Every silhouette is a complex puzzle combining intriguing techniques only known by Chitose and her creative team, for an incredible result: almost like hybrid clothes! One can expect her to go further and to push her team and herself too, to go on the wild side, to do things like they have never done before. It's just like re-booting her brand. That's what she learnt from her Comme Des Garçons experience working with Junya Watanabe: finding ways to solve problems of creations, overcoming them, literally exploring what is beyond the limits like mastering the impossible. Of course, everything is under control even if it's hard to believe someone can control chaos. Chitose does it very well starting with a very classic foundation using good old vintage staples you can find in a good old thrift store or market like bandana, scarves, blankets and other stuffs worn in the army like trench coats, officer & MA-1 flight jackets are becoming hybrid pieces re-shaping the body. Here a dress is more than a simple dress and a skirt is more than the idea of a basic skirt as well. Every garment is here to evoke the sublime or the most inventive version of it. Allusions are made to the past without looking backward referencing the 80's hot New-York club Paradise Garage which is the birthplace of Garage music paying a tribute to it through sheer logo t-shirts. The same mood is to be found also in the vintage postcard prints becoming elegant outfits disturbing and distracting my eyes. My eyes are really travelling when the first layered silhouettes are coming on the catwalk. An asymmetrical dress is a fusion of two dresses one with a floral embroideries (not lace) that is created by the surgical cut-outs on the printed postcard fabric and the other one underneath is like a silk négligé. A sheer and silk satin straps t-shirt with slits on the sides worn over a pleated tulle dress. A transparent long top is made out of paisley embroideries to worn over the signature négligé. The same fabric is used to design pleated skirts and dresses. Royal golden embroideries silhouettes are also making their appearance toward the end of the show for a breathtaking moment of fashion.
This collection is one of my viral moments from the Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016. Let me be honest I have few moments, but this one is really touching. I cannot forget the pieces I've seen in this collection. Memorable collections are scarce. This industry is definitely running out, producing use-by date clothes but Sacai is not that kind of brand. These pieces can be worn over and over again without losing their power of attraction. One can get rid of a magical Sacai piece but one cannot take the magic out of it!
Pics via I-D Online by Jason Lloyd Evans
Words by Yann Sackville-West