31/10/2015

THE SUN ALSO RISES







WEEKDAY Long Bomber Jacket
KENZO Neoprene Top
OAK Asymmetrical Tee-Shirt
CHEAP MONDAY Jeans
& OTHER STORIES Sunglasses
VANS Slip Ons



LINKS A LA MODE: THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP [10/29]


Links à la Mode, October 29
SPONSOR: Shopbop Blank Denim, Love Sam Tops, Schutz Shoes, Zoe Chicco, Bickley + Mitchell, Sara Battaglia, Long Cardigans, Black Lace Tops, Fur Coats, Men's Splendid Mills

30/10/2015

ONE NIGHT ONLY IN BROADWAY


Fashion is a circus, a permanent show, no need to tell you. It's even truer nowadays with everything going on. Can you really believe all the things that happened in such a short period of time? Raf Simons leaving Dior, Alexander Wang leaving Balenciaga and Alber Elbaz fired from Lanvin after 14 years of good and faithful service, responsible for the return to grace of this French sleeping beauty. Some things are beyond understanding and just leave you speechless...
But Fashion is a demanding circus with due dates and even more collections. Designers are under pressure. It's not a surprise if some decide to take some time to breathe and live a "normal" life (normal is not a proper word when it comes to Fashion). Yet, these come & go can also have positive effects. Take Alexander Wang for instance. We are sure his departure from Balenciaga is a thoughtful & wise move to focus on his eponymous brand that knows a huge & fast expansion. As far as Marc Jacobs is concerned, his departure from Louis Vuitton was harder to deal with and we could have feared a sad & down era for his own brand. It is definitely not the case when you look at his insane & filled with creativity & extravaganza collections. Marc Jacobs is back for good. Marc Jacobs is still the King of Fashion! The end of this glorious era has been both beneficial and life-saving for him. This renewal started with his mind-blowing tribute to the legendary Diana Vreeland for Autum Winter 2015/16 and is continuing for Spring Summer 2016 with a collection dedicated to the Showgirls, to Broadway, to New York City and to a larger extent to the United States. Diana Vreeland used to say that "the eye has to travel" but the eye has to take its time to do so just like creativity. You have to take your time to create, to enjoy creating, to be able to transpose inspirations in the best of ways. Rome wasn't built in a day and so is Fashion.


Pic by Daniel Jackson for LOVE Magazine
Pic via the Marc Jacobs Facebook page
Pic by Daniel Jackson for LOVE Magazine
Because Marc Jacobs has been able to refocus, he is once again at his best and his SS16 collection can be seen as the Episode 2 of what he started with his explosive Diana Vreeland homage. This is a collection for showgirls (a recurrent theme for the designer) where his heroines are wearing clothes that take all their meaning at twilight when the night is slowly but surely taking the control. But they are clothes to go out as well, to go to Broadway, to watch some shows and to be the Show yourself, clothes to have a date with the whole New York City just like Carrie Bradshaw. A lot of things are going on in the US these days and particularly marriage equality. We are under the impression that Marc Jacobs wants to celebrate this moment by celebrating his country hence a kind of patriotic vibe with the star spangled banner printed pieces and the prevailing colours of the collection (red, blue & white). To do so and with his unique sense of casting (with the help of Katie Grand of course!) he chose girls with strong personalities, powerful faces to incarnate all the sides of his showgirls. This is definitely the cast of the season with such girls as the badass Natalie Westling who opened the show, Julia Nobis, Rianne van Rompaey (the new Twiggy), Mica Arganaraz, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Sarah Brannon, Kiki Willems, the fierce Catherine McNeil, Lineisy Montero, Caroline Trentini, the flamboyant Karen Elson, Karly Loyce, Ajak Deng, Issa Lish, Lexi Boling, Anna Cleveland, Molly Bair, the lunar Cierra Skye, Guinevere Van Seenus, Anna Ewers, Saskia de Brauw, Peyton Knight, Binx Walton, Joan Smalls, Jamie Bochert, Adriana Lima, Grace Bol, the sculptural Alek Wek, Marjan Jonkman and of course the iconic Beth Ditto (and the list is still long!)! The climax of eclecticism! All these beauties are gathered for an opening night at the Ziegfeld Theater, a place dear to Marc Jacobs where he used to watch movies as a kid. Such a Broadway event means a red carpet, a photocall with dozens of noisy photographers, a long catwalk, a big band playing live. Going out in NYC is and always will be an event!
Pic by Evan Schreiber for Dazed
Pic via the Marc Jacobs Facebook page
Pic by Evan Schreiber for Dazed
This collection is a tribute to Pop Culture, to all these arts we love so much and that are celebrated in this unique place in the world that is Broadway: Opera, Cinema, Ballet, Musicals... Just like the casting, this collection is about diversity but also about decadence & eccentricity. The clothes may seem too much or too daring but they perfectly fit within the worlds they are paying a tribute to. What is more audacious than a Musical costume? What can be more outrageous than a Diva outfit? We can spot all the references (sometimes in a whole outfit, sometimes in smaller details) it goes from the 40s movie stars to David Bowie, from Maria Callas to Cats, from Alfred Hitchcock to Swan Lake, from Andy Warhol to Cabaret, from the Wizard of Oz to Mickey Mouse. However, this is not literal at all because there is the Marc Jacobs touch: a unique mix of opulence, decadence, grunge, destroy aesthetics and a lot of attitude! Here, an unstructured cashmere cardigan is worn with a check shirt (a garment dear to cowboys just like denim, a fabric that can be found here and there in the collection) and a floor-length sequined slit skirt standing for the US flag. There, an oversized varsity jacket embellished with pins symbolizing the US (the Playboy Rabbit/popcorn/the Wizard of Oz baby shoes) or the Music Hall world (red lipstick + cigarette holder reminding us of the movie Cabaret) and embroidered on the back with the word 'Rainbow' (another reference to the Wizard of Oz) and worn over a "classic" lurex argyle jumper & red leather trousers (with checked revers). This collection is a wonderful mix of influences & times; thus, a very 40s pinstripe jacket with broad shoulders is worn with a sheer check shirt (a recurrent pattern throughout the collection), a sheer striped skirt and platform boots (for a 70s nod to Glam Rock) or we could also quote the one shoulder dress quite grunge but also completely glamorous because totally embroidered in sequins. Do you remember the Sex and the City episode when Carrie and friends are invited to the Sailors' Ball (Samantha's favourite time of the year)? There are also hints to the Navy with sailor outfits reminding us of the 4th of July celebrations. 
This merry mess wouldn't be complete without the costumes à la Life on Mars by David Bowie: soft blue or red pinstripe suits with slouchy pants & wide shoulder jacket; or with the Warholian inspiration on some outfits: images of Janet Leigh screaming in Psycho, Joan Crawford & her very recognizable eyes or Maria Callas singing out loud printed on a floor-length coat, a skirt or in a total look (jacket + skirt). At last, the final look of this show is very evocative of the Swan Lake but a Swan Lake meeting a grunge aesthetic: a sheer lace dress with sequins and an embroidery of two swans intertwined on the front. Absolutely sublime!

Pics by Evan Schreiber for Dazed
Pics via the Marc Jacobs Facebook page
The power of Marc Jacobs seems infinite and though his outfits could quickly become costumy or vintage looking, he succeeds in making us forget these vibes thanks to an incredible mix of so many periods and to multiple cultural references. Just like his campaigns where he is always mixing people from so different backgrounds (take his latest AW15 ad campaign for instance where Cher, Kim Gordon, Winona Ryder, Anthony Kiedis, Willow Smith, Debi Mazar or Sofia Coppola meet), his keyword seems to be ECLECTICISM in this SS16 collection and beyond, in all his collections. This is the mark of geniuses. It could be a risk to put that many references in only one collection but here, they are all perfectly melting with each other to form a magnificent & breathtaking ode to Music Hall & Americana. When a few months ago, we learnt that Marc by Marc Jacobs was disappearing for a brand repositioning, it deeply saddened us but it all makes sense now! Marc Jacobs is flamboyant like never before and is shining bright, just like the neons on the facade of a Broadway theatre.


Words by Charles Margueritte & Yann Sackville West



28/10/2015

ALL FOR SHOW

Last week, all the Fashion fans had their eyes on New York for the most anticipated event of the year. Well, it may be too exaggerated to say "all the Fashion fans", let's just say all those who want to be part of the Kardashian/Jenner family and who love Fashion as well. Of course, I'm talking about the Balmain X H&M show. The show of the year! Of the decade! Of the century! The motto "Sparkle!" and the least we can say, it did sparkle! After all, Bling Bling & Balmain are a match made in Heaven. I kinda like Balmain and the insane work on the clothes collection after collection even if, I have to admit that I am quite disappointed by the latest collections. Olivier Rousteing seems less inspired and seems to be only designing for the above mentioned Klan... The Spring Summer 2016 is nothing less than the wardrobe of the most famous Kardashian sister with a not that inspired styling: open a gossip magazine, look for Kim Kardashian (it should not be too hard) then copy her look, the way she is wearing the clothes and do NOT forget the jacket you will flippantly wear on your shoulders...

La semaine dernière avait lieu, à New York, l'événement que tous les fans de mode attendaient. Enfin tous les fans de mode c'est peut-être un peu exagéré - disons plutôt toutes celles et tous ceux qui rêvent de faire partie du clan Kardashian/Jenner et qui, accessoirement, aiment la mode. Je veux bien entendu parler du défilé Balmain X H&M. Le show de l'année! De la décennie! Que dis-je du siècle! Le mot d'ordre "Faut que ça brille!". Et le moins que l'on puisse dire c'est que ça a brillé. Après tout Bling Bling et Balmain vont de paire. Moi j'aime bien Balmain et le travail fou des ateliers à chaque collection même si je dois bien avouer que ces derniers temps, il y a quelque chose de moins inspiré chez Olivier Rousteing qui semble surtout faire des collections pour le Klan précédemment cité... La dernière collection en date pour le Printemps Eté 2016 était carrément faite pour la plus connue des soeurs Kardashian, avec un styling assez peu inspiré: ouvrez n'importe quel magazine people, cherchez Kim Kardashian (ça ne devrait pas être bien compliqué) puis recopiez à l'identique la façon qu'elle a de porter ses vêtements et surtout n'oubliez pas la veste négligemment portée sur les épaules...

Anyway, I am not here to speak evil of Miss K. and sisters, I have already done it before and I have to say that discoursing about the void can be pretty exhausting... So, the Balmain X H&M show! The most famous models of the moment, some dance routines, an endless catwalk with stairs, stairs and stairs. A huge show and overexcited guests dreaming of only one thing, buying (but is "buying" the right word?) the clothes right after the presentation. Of course, the guests won't have to wait outside an H&M on a nice, cold, very early morning of November to get 15 minutes of an intensive, crazy and almost absurd shopping. And if you can't try on the clothes and they don't fit, don't worry, you could sell them on E-Bay for prices that would make the genuine Balmain look like H&M! The loop is closed.
To be honest, I have to say that the clothes of this collab are really faithful to the Balmain aesthetic, iconic pieces from past collections are here re-edited and it's quite a good surprise. You may wonder why I wrote an article only to tell you this kind of things (after all, according to us this is not the collab of the year, Ximon Lee X H&M being way more exciting & interesting). Actually, I have a real problem (or two problems) with this collection and I had to tell you about my disappointment. First, I came upon its prices in a magazine and let's just say, some are completely steep: 500€ for a dress is quite expensive -Ok it's Balmain but it's H&M above all! Wake up guys! Secondly, some dresses worn during the show (especially one worn by Alessandra Ambrosio) won't even be produced! Pretty deceitful & misleading isn't it? All of a sudden, the "incalculable" number of silhouettes during the show makes sense. It's much easier when you add pieces only to wow people... It seems that H&M has fallen into its own trap: making fashion & luxury more accessible is completely laudable but Balmain is about savoir-faire, techniques, embroideries, Balmain looks expensive, Balmain is expensive so bringing it to the largest number can be risky. Indeed, it's a risk to propose clothes that could be too expensive for Fast Fashion and regarding the production costs, it's a risk not to be able to produce enough standout, edgy & interesting pieces. So why not creating pieces only for show, to keep up appearances, for the sake of Glitter & Bling? This is the kind of things the French House seems to master to perfection!

Bref, je ne suis pas ici pour dire du mal de Miss K. et consœurs, je l'ai déjà fait auparavant et moi disserter sur le vide, ça m'épuise... Le show Balmain X H&M! Les plus grands tops du moment, des chorégraphies, un catwalk interminable avec des escaliers à gogo. Du gros show en somme et des gens fous, ne rêvant que d'une seule chose, acheter (vont-ils vraiment les acheter là est la question) les vêtements juste après le défilé. Car les invités n'auront évidemment pas besoin d'aller se geler les miches par un beau et sans doute froid petit matin de novembre, pour faire la queue et ainsi avoir droit à 15 minutes d'un shopping intensif, dingue voire même un peu absurde. Et puis tant pis si on ne peut pas essayer, on les revendra sur E-Bay à des prix qui feront passer le vrai Balmain pour du H&M! La boucle est bouclée.
Il faut bien avouer que les vêtements de la collection sont vraiment fidèles à l'esthétique Balmain, Olivier Rousteing ayant pioché dans ses précédentes collections pour ré-éditer des pièces iconiques. Si c'était juste ça, ça serait parfait et je n'aurais limite pas eu besoin de poster un article (après tout pour nous, la vraie collab de l'année c'est Ximon Lee X H&M, un cran au-dessus et bien plus intéressante). Non le vrai problème c'est lorsque j'ai découvert au détour d'un article dans un magazine, tout d'abord les prix, disons le, complètement prohibitifs (500€ pour une robe ça fait un peu cher quand même -Ok c'est du Balmain mais c'est aussi du H&M les gars réveillez-vous!) mais aussi et surtout que certaines robes du défilé n'avaient été conçues que pour celui-ci et jamais, il n'avait été envisagé de les produire (notamment une robe portée par Alessandra Ambrosio)! Il n'y aurait pas un peu tromperie sur la marchandise? D'un coup je comprends mieux le nombre incalculable de silhouettes au défilé. C'est beaucoup plus facile lorsque l'on rajoute des pièces juste pour en mettre plein la vue... A trop vouloir démocratiser le luxe et la mode, il semblerait que H&M soit tombé dans un piège. Balmain c'est bien, c'est beau, c'est cool mais Balmain c'est du savoir-faire, de la broderie, de la technique et surtout, un coût! Balmain c'est cher et au final, apporter Balmain au plus grand nombre ne se fait pas sans risque. C'est risquer de proposer des vêtements trop chers pour de la Fast Fashion et vu les coûts de production, risquer de ne pas proposer assez de pièces intéressantes et vraiment pointues. Alors, pourquoi ne pas en faire plus juste pour le show, pour les apparences, pour le Glitter, le Bling, le Strass? C'est quelque chose que la marque française semble maîtriser à la perfection!

Pic via Tumblr

Words by Charles Margueritte


26/10/2015

LOOKING FURTHER







MAISON MARGIELA X H&M Jacket
UNIQLO Hoodie
NEW LOOK Tee-Shirt
NEW LOOK Jeans
& OTHER STORIES Sunglasses
NIKE Huarache Sneakers


25/10/2015

W.A.R.M. TOP 10

1/ The Shocking News: Raf Simons bids farewell to Dior


Pic via the Daily Read List

2/ The Movie Trailer: Star Wars: The Force Awakens by J.J Abrams




3/ The Magazine Cover: Adele by Alasdair McLellan for I-D Winter 2015




4/ The Music Video: Florence + The Machine - Delilah




5/ The Editorial: Julia Nobis by Craig McDean for W Magazine





6/ The TV Show: Jessica Jones in November on Netflix



7/ The Collab: Eastpak X House of Hackney




8/ The Exhibition: No Longer/Not Yet in Shanghai



9/ The Icon: Chloë Sevigny by Ezra Petronio for Self Service Magazine






10/ The Talk Of The Town: Adele is back with Hello, a music video directed by Xavier Dolan



Made by Charles Margueritte



LINKS A LA MODE: THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP [10/22]


Links à la Mode, October 22
SPONSOR: Shopbop IRO, Current/Elliott Jeans, Sophie Hulme Bags, Earnest Sewn, Ingrid & Isabel, DESA NINETEENSEVENTYTWO, Wool Sweaters, Velvet Pants, Tights, Men's Boots

24/10/2015

BOMBSHELL

Low Classic is just like South Korea, a tasty mix of modernity and tradition. Myoung Sin Lee who is the creative designer of the brand wants it to reflect a classical and feminine sensation. As the name of the brand is suggesting her creations have nothing to do with triviality. She is playing with classical foundations to come up with a new silhouette disrupting with the staples of a woman's wardrobe. It's about editing eye-catching basics that will make you want to get rid of the ones hanging in your closet. Myoung Sin Lee knows how to capture people's attention and invent objects of desire. Her brand is all about producing well-made, quite "affordable" pieces with so much attractiveness, boldness and uniqueness. One cannot ignore the Céline-like and the Margiela-like or the Vetements-like vibes of Low Classic. These references are assumed and must be considered as inspirations not copies. Low Classic is neither Céline nor Margiela having its own aesthetic. Low Classic stands for itself with innovative and inventive collections that make their success becoming one of the hottest venues of the Seoul Fashion Week!

The Spring Summer 2016 collection was definitely very anticipated. This time, the Low Classic girl is facing an emotional and sexual transition. This collection looks like a rite of passage from a girl with a lot of attitudes to a bombshell. Myoung Sin Lee is portraying girls with no inhibitions. Girls who are growing up, losing their innocence and who are taking control of their bodies and femininity. It reminds me of the Run Riot of Spring Summer 2014 which was depicting another rite of passage (from innocence to rebellion). But this Spring Summer 16 collection is going further as I could read the word 'sex' behind each and every silhouette of this collection from the nude illustrations, the messages on the t-shirts to the exposed parts of the body, suggested or hidden under the lightweight fabrics and the sharp cut tailoring. Frontal zips are embellishing sophisticated long sleeves utility jackets, suits and tube knits. Exquisite silks and satin are cut to create pajama uniforms, bra tops layered over t-shirts and long length bombers. Streetwise outfits make their appearance on the catwalk composed of a boxy printed t-shirt paired with a long length skirt and a biker knotted on the waist for a grungy effect. Showstopper apron dresses are definitely the ones to wear now!





Low Classic is exclusively sold in South Korea. The only way to buy it is either to go to South Korea or to order online on Opening Ceremony (they are only selling some pieces). Its rare position on the market makes it even more exciting. I don't remember how I came across this brand but ever since, I can't help expressing how much I love it. Low Classic helped me discover other South Korean brands that do not present their collections abroad. I want to learn more about their culture not only through their K-style, their foods and their K-Pop. It's not enough! I want go there in the future. But for the moment,  I'm going to have a taste of South Korean through this Spring Summer 2016 Low Classic collection!





Pics via Inapad.com


Words by Yann Sackville-West