At last, things are getting serious again! After dead calm weeks in the fashion sphere, if you except the pre-fall collections and the release of SS16 ad campaigns (one of my biggest guilty pleasures I have to admit), our boredom is quietly but surely turning into excitement again since the Menswear collections for Autumn Winter 2016/17 are staring today with London Collections: Men, perhaps our favourite city when it comes to menswear presentations and probably our favourite city full stop. This means new trends (at least I do hope so), new faces, sexy & beyond cool guys (especially during this particular fashion week) and above all, clothes that will instantly land onto some of our future wishlists. I am already completely excited by what J.W Anderson (and Jonathan Anderson for Loewe), Raf Simons, Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, Alessandro Michele for Gucci, Craig Green, Miuccia Prada (and even Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent) & many more will imagine for the next Autumn/Winter season. Aren't you?
The first major event of this LC:M is of course TOPMAN DESIGN where you can expect some good music, desirable clothes that are, most of the time, wearable and some cool vibes that will surely set the tone for this whole British Fashion Week. When I watched the show live a few hours ago, I immediately thought of a community of artists living in some squats because they just don't care. The Topman guy doesn't care at all, he is beyond cool, beyond trends, beyond fashion. He has this ability to mix all the references he loves (the 90s grunge, the 70s Flower Power, the 00s Club Kids...) and all the fashion profiles he can relate to (sportswear, dapper chic, rocker, skater...) to come to his very own result, an effortless silhouette that may seem over the top or outdated sometimes but that inevitably becomes a definition of desirability & cool. That's the power of the British Fashion in general: making you want & need clothes/outfits that you would never ever have dreamed of.
In this AW16/17 collection, the fabrics are most of the time pretty luxurious with velvet (the total shiny velvet looks are not the easiest to wear but are undoubtedly very editorial), satin (in some pajama looks), leather, suede and even denim that is experiencing a special treatment with flower embroideries. This work on raw/ripped denim is very interesting since it gives a new meaning to something we could easily qualify as very 90s. The denim in this collection is much more than very 90s or made for skater kind of boys: with this fabric, the Topman Design team wants to give it a brand new dimension than this thing that everyone is wearing. Ok our denim is ripped, raw, washed out, even deconstructed but it has these beautiful embellishments that surely add to this rich boys who doesn't give a f*** side. The play on proportions is exquisite and the styling is major: the boys are wearing crop jumpers over long satin shirts, crop shirts over sheer tee-shirts or even (and that's my favourite!) velvet kimonos over crop fluffy jumpers with long long sleeves over long long satin shirts. I love this perfect balance between the outerwear or utilitarian pieces (the heavy knits, the crop jackets, the floor-length coats that are all absolutely beautiful - special mention to the houndstooth & the zigzag printed ones - standout pieces for next Autumn) and the ones that would be perfect to stay at home (all the satin pieces -very pajama like), the contrast is obvious but it is working so well and gives you an immediate attitude - once again, the badass boy who can wear whatever he wants and who looks good in any kind of clothes/fabrics. The colour palette is classical for an Autumn Winter collection but the tones are rich and increase this luxury side: burgundy, purple, yellow, khaki, ochre, orange, light brown. All these tones are working really well with the flower patterns and the shiny velvet fabric; they almost give some kind of Dries Van Noten vibes to this collection (which is always for the best!)
|Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed|
The power of fashion is quite summed up with this collection (and with many others of course) because while watching it and though I'm quite far from this aesthetic, I wanted to be a part of this rich boho boys gang who seem to spend their lives skateboarding, painting, declaiming poems or assembling clothes that usually don't match that well. Of course, you don't have to take for granted all these silhouettes! Of course, wearing shiny velvet can be dangerous & risky (especially when worn as a total look) or these 70s flower power prints can make you feel like in a Scooby Doo episode but who cares!? The important here is that you can imagine a lot of things with these Topman Design clothes and perhaps, one day, you'll feel self-confident enough to wear them and at that moment, you'll feel like a rockstar, a kind of music guru (after all, we are in England never forget it!), the kind of boys Topman Design wants you to embody when wearing these clothes.
Those 3 are my favourite silhouettes
[pictures from WWD]
I love the fact that this jumper is so long it could almost be worn as a dress. Worn with this impeccable coat (with this deep blue lining), it's simply perfect. I could totally wear these two but perhaps with black skinny jeans instead.
The statement look of this collection according to me. The play on lengths and fabrics is perfect! I want this velvet kimono (and the model's fierce look) so much!
Is there a word for "cooler than cool"? The contrast between this raw & washed out denim and these delicate embroideries work so well!
Words by Charles Margueritte