In 2015, I was captivated by the explosion of the question of gender and the emergence of the trans culture, the abundance of TV-shows [Transparent, Sense8], films [Tangerine, The Danish Girl], artists [Laverne Cox, Hari Nef, Andreja Pejic and the list is getting longer and longer], activists [Boychild] all talking about something that wasn't meant to stay underground any longer.Whatever the media everyone is talking about that. Even reality TV shows are bringing up the topic! I couldn't miss a single episode of Call Me Caitlin who had deeply broken the internet and surprised the whole world with her Vanity Fair Cover. I don't know if it's going to change the perception of people about the trans community for good or if what Caitlin Jenner has done is a good or a bad thing for them but at least people are talking about it. It's not a revolution but there's something in the air saying that things are moving slowly but there are surely moving forward, in the right direction. If the whole world is not ready for them, the fashion industry is definitely their refuge. These strong personalities have been part of the game for a long time now. These over the top beauties/ muses/ established role models are opening a different and brand new path for the future generation. The thing I love the most with gender fluid is that there are no rules, no labels, no etiquette, no questions of beauty. It's all about being free! You just have to come as you are, expressing what you have inside you if you have something to say; to make it short just be yourself! Following your own rules is perhaps the hardest thing to do. I don't know if the whole world is ready now to drop its mainstream stereotypes but if this generation is not ready, the next one will definitely be much more prepared.
Brands like Maison Margiela are not waiting after the next generation to grow up and be able to buy their gender fluid stuff. They are not waiting for the future simply because they ARE the future. Their Avant Première Fall 2016 (in the Margiela lexicon it means the Pre-Fall 16) is another proof (if we really need another one) that they follow no rules. If you are moved by this Pre-Fall, you just have to go to one of their stores in order to buy the piece(s) you like. It's easy as A B C. Model Vincent Beier is embodying the concept of this collection and he is the kind of boy with no inhibitions, the one who isn't afraid to be himself, wearing the collection like no one else under Brett Lloyd's lens. That's very ballsy to expose his personality like that, accepting to wear clothes "made for women" making us question the way we are dressing up. This collection is just relevant and there's nothing more to be questioned. There's a bit of extravagance, a hint of everything you need to be well-dressed no matter your gender. That's the only thing that needs to be remembered. Does anyone need a tweed bias-cut dress with a knotted shoulder detail and raw edging to pair with black leather 'Tabi' boots? What about a rabbit fur coat with print motif instead? Do you dare opting for an astrakhan-effect cloqué apron worn with black round-toe pumps for a clubbing night? Why not as long as you are feeling pretty in these pieces!?
This Pre collection is just implying that you can be yourself no matter the gender or even the clothes. Choose what you love and choose it well guys!
Words by Yann Sackville-West