Nancy boy is a post-war term for homosexual. There's a list of dreadful and unbearable terms to qualify homosexual these days, but compared to queer, fagot etc this one is softer. If Rory Parnell-Mooney is using this term like a slogan in his Autumn Winter 2016 collection it means that this term is still relevant. The Irish-born designer who lives and works in London and graduated from Central Saint Martins wants to pull the trigger and also to provoke because homosexuals are still an issue for a large number of idiots. It's both a statement and a reference to the silhouettes that are making their appearance on the MAN Fashion Show (which is an initiative created by Fashion East and Topman to provide help and support to the upcoming talents). They are black and white minimal ensembles with simple design but they are standing for something that matters. These looks are full of soul and definitely meaningful. This collection is less radical in the design than the previous ones but that doesn't mean it's lacking of creativity. He wants to derange with a simple post-war term. I see more behind these black and white outfits. There's always this question of beauty that keeps coming on back. What is masculinity? Does it really mean something today? The collection is gender-less, gender-fluid, gender-free or whatever you call it, dedicated to people who are free and who are not afraid of any aspects of their personalities. Those who are hurt by these silhouettes should wonder what is wrong with them! Men who are a bit feminine and women who are a bit masculine are not freaks. Charles and I are Nancy Boys and there's nothing wrong with that. Parnell-Mooney's radical collection is all about that message. The Nancy boy t-shirt is definitely on my radar. I'm not very tall but I can picture myself wearing the slouchy sharp tailored pieces opting for the navy outfits pairing them with the croc-patent leather floor-length coat (certainly my favorite look). There are these bitchy silk satin tops and the belted trench-like coats with boxy proportions that mustn't be forgotten. The oversize hoodies and the white splashes that look like painting adorned on the jackets and trousers are showstoppers and definitely ready-to-wear! The statement is strong with this collection, but Parnell Mooney doesn't forget to beautiful clothes and succeeds in erasing the negative connotation of this term. I'm a Nancy boy and so what ?
|Pics by Daisy Walker via Dazed Digital|
Words by Yann Sackville-West