Save and Survive are the Russian words written on the new punk and skateboard-inspired uniforms of the Autumn-Winter 2016 collection of Gosha Rubchinskiy. These significant words are taken from a classical idiom in orthodox Russian. In other words, there are things that should be sacred, glorified and protected. Past subcultures are these things that should be saved and that must survive. Rubchinskiy is fond of them, cherishing them season after season. That's the main inspiration behind each collection he has created. It's a treasure that should be preserved. He is looking up to the past subcultures to come up with a new silhouette for his AW2016 collection. These silhouettes are not screaming brand new ideas but they are full of the free and irreverent spirit of the Comme Des Garçons labels. They are perfect for young and restless boys with a lot of attitude and irreverence. The Instagram-casting of boys around the world is revealing what kind of beauty Rubchinskiy was looking for his collection. As diverse as the casting was, the whole world wants to be part of his tribe. Nowadays, the Cyrillic logo t-shirts, the tracksuits, the sweatshirts and the printed knits are staples of a men's wardrobe. People are literally fighting to buy one of his utility piece. His collections are almost sold out the day of their launching. I'm sure it will be the same for this collection.
Rubchinskiy is creating objects of desire. His Punk is not dead pieces are relevant and full of romanticism. Oversize jackets (mostly leather jackets) are worn over slogan t-shirts and high-waisted track pants. High-waist belted baggy trousers are paired with printed and intarsia knits influenced by 90's Skinheads. Boxy sweatshirts with exaggerated long and double cuffed sleeves are brilliant and ingenious.
Simple designs that mean the world to a lot of people. Sometimes trivial things are the most beautiful. Gosha Rubchinskiy has established an empire with a lot of these simple designs. They may look simple but they are deeply meaningful.
Pics by Chloé le Drezen via Dazed Digital
Words by Yann Sackville-West
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