19/02/2016

BLACK CATS, RATS & CROWS

"Keeping the best for last" has been invented for Marc Jacobs. He is the one we are all waiting for, the one coming at the very last minutes of New York Fashion Week. The one giving us faith in this fashion week that is, let's just say, not the most exciting & interesting one. So after a week of a majority of boring shows, here comes Marc Jacobs and his welcome extravaganza. We have already said it before but Marc Jacobs is the ultimate Showgirl! The one who is not afraid to put all his fashion fantasies in action. The one who revived the fashionable spirits of Diana Vreeland or Edie Sedgwick. The one who made Utopia come true. The one who is keeping the vibrant soul of New York so much alive! And we could go on and on. After his spectacular feu d'artifice at the Ziegfeld Theatre for Spring Summer 2016, Yann & I were expecting so much. This time, no excess, no follies but a clean white circular space. No band playing some good songs but a bip again and again and again and again. Nevertheless, the show was definitely here and once again, Marc Jacobs hit hard.

Picture by Thurstan Redding for LOVE
The first words coming to our minds when the show began and the first silhouettes made their entrance were "Larger Than Life". A good definition of Marc Jacobs's personality & character. He is definitely larger than life with his excessive collections, his extravagant friends, his brilliant & never ending ad campaigns, his dog, his life as a fashion designer, his work for Louis Vuitton etc... The very first silhouette composed of an embroidered sweater (reminding us of his previous collection) adorned with a large crocheted collar, a large embellished ball skirt and insanely high & perilous platform boots (that Lady Gaga, who walked the show, found not that high after all...) set the tone for this whole collection: we were about to attend a monstrous show in every meaning, a show mixing elements of Marc's past collections with new things, a show playing with fashion codes & time periods (the 20s, the 40s, the 80s, the 90s), a show full of contrasts & antagonisms (heavy vs light, darkness vs light, luxury fabrics vs low & profane ones, layers of layers of layers vs nudity...), everything entangled in the most perfect & beautiful way. Our relationship toward fashion is often a matter of obsession, with his Autumn Winter 2016 collection, Marc Jacobs just managed to make us even more obsessed with him while we thought it couldn't be possible.

Picture by Thurstan Redding for LOVE
Everything is big here (a bit like Raf Simons's AW16 collection presented a few weeks ago actually): oversized shapes pushed to the extreme (the work on the jackets & coats is exceptional), heavy embellishments & adornments, a very Marc Jacobs sequin galore. Yet, even if this collection is definitely a SHOW this is a very different kind of show this time: Marc Jacobs left his joyful, very 4th of July celebration of America for a darker one, more Beetlejuice than Betty Boop, a collection full of black cats, rats, crows & cobwebs. The elements of show here lie in the deep contrast between the whiter than white space and the dark, dramatic outfits (this time, it's all about the clothes and nothing else!), between the soundtrack only composed of bips (similar to the sound your I Phone makes when you have a message) and the sound the heavy shoes make on the catwalk, between the very Kiss make up and the 1920s waves, between the gothic/romantic Victoriana silhouettes and the almost trashy punk outfits (especially with the denim wash outfits, the work on the leather and the unfinished & raw hems). Honestly, we can wonder how a normal height woman will be able to rock these exaggerated shapes (just take a look at 5'1"" Lady Gaga who seems so small, almost enshrouded in her outfit!) but after all, it seems a not that important matter since the über-oversized silhouettes are counterbalanced by more fitted versions.




Pictures via Dazed, courtesy of Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs left Broadway and its lively & merry streets for more mysterious alleys. His AW16 collection is gothic, dark & disturbing yet utterly fun. The main color palette composed of gray, black & deep blue is enhanced by flashes of pink and pastel shades. The gloomy prints are balanced by lighter ones such as polka dots (a wink at Rei Kawakubo & Comme des Garçons? This is how we see it. Look at the deconstructed jackets and over-the-top shapes!), ballerinas (a clear reference to SS16) or checks & stripes (Marc's favorites). His garments are like costumes sometimes. Some seem to come out of a cartoon: Molly Bair's final look is a mix between Cruella DeVil and Burton's Alice in Wonderland's Queen of Hearts. The effect is massive, unforgettable and devastating. No more questions of wearability or possibility here. His creations are works of art, obsessional works of art that you cannot stop admiring. Nowadays, too many designers are trying to reach a kind of impossible minimalist ideal or are desperately seeking the streets to find a substantial inspiration, Marc Jacobs is just about being TOO MUCH and we love him for this so so much. 

Picture via Dazed, courtesy of Marc Jacobs













All the detail pics were taken by Pablo Latorre for Vogue.com
All the runway pics were taken by Alessandro Garofalo for Vogue.com



Words by Charles Margueritte & Yann Sackville-West



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