21/02/2016

DESIGN DISRUPTED [PART ONE]

We chose to entitle this article about the first days of the London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2016 DESIGN DISRUPTED since London is all about it. To us, London means pure creation and proves season after season that an innovative fashion can go hand in hand with commercial views and above all, can be prioritized over trends. To tell you the truth, we'd rather see a tour de force collection with radical designs that won't sell than a hyper commercial  one with ideas going in all directions. That's one of the problems of the New York Fashion Week that is getting lost in a sea of inconsistent designs that will sell. London is underground, irreverent and the greatest reservoir of talents. Look at all the biggest designers that have emerged these last few years, a huge majority is coming from UK: Jonathan Anderson, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Gareth Pugh, Erdem Moralioglu, Mary Katrantzou & many more. In their process of creation, Illustration meets Sculpture meets Painting meets Architecture. The eyes have to travel could be the best way to define how they grasp Fashion.

Tomorrow's Fashion is Faustine Steinmetz's Fashion where craftsmanship will always prevail over trends & money. Her creating process takes hours, days to reach a perfection made of handmade basics (not so basic) that could easily be seen as Couture. In her latest collection for AW16, she imagined handwoven mohair jeans whose process she described on her Instagram account. Here are some of the details of the process that stroke us the most:"For each pair of our#Handwoven Mohair Jeans we use roughly 300g of wool. A sheep produces anywhere from 1kg to 14kk of wool in a year" [...] "To prepare the warp yarn so that we can begin setting the loom takes us almost an hour just to have enough ready for one pair of jeans" [...] "On a good day we can weave almost a meter of fabric [...] In total it takes just over 2m of fabric to make a pair of our jeans" [...] "The dying process takes two hours to complete and it usually takes a whole day for the fabric to dry" [...] "Sewing a pair of our jeans can take up to 7 hours or more to complete". Isn't it absolutely impressive? Time is a weird & frightening notion for fashion designers. More and more collections to design means less and less time to do things in depth. Faustine Steinmetz takes her time, to make things meticulously and the result is beyond stunning!





Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed

Hannah Weiland, the designer of Shrimps, has established her brand dedicated to faux fur as one of the coolest British brands of the moment. Fur fantasy is becoming a must into her hands and is becoming much more interesting than real fur actually. Collection after collection, her coats are the most impressive & important pieces, genuine showpieces but now she is adding new must haves to her wardrobe such as dresses or skirts in black, red or soft pink. The stunning pieces of this AW16 collection is for sure the Dory-printed coat (the drawing of a woman also appearing on pajamas & sheer dress) and the polka dots flocked red dress. So desirable! Just like all the other printed pieces with such patterns as hand drawn leopard, zigzags, stripes & checks. Cool, modern and fun the perfect combo!




Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed

Molly Goddard, is another fun fashion girl rocking the British capital. Her inspired party dresses are on everyone's lips these days. This Central Saint Martins graduate is an expert in the smock technique, hand pleating & crochet and is redefining the female silhouette. Her statement pieces are definitely the dresses. Dresses that make some nostalgia feelings resurface: coming of age, the 1st parties, the prom ball, the idea of a dress that would go through generations, that a mother would give to her daughter and so on (Goddard's mom & sister took part in this AW16 show). Every collection is a variation around these sculptural dresses, these layers of tulle... So sophisticated, evanescent & light. They are all about the fragility of a feminine body, a girl starting to change.





Pictures via Tumblr


Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte



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