21/02/2016

DESIGN DISRUPTED [PART TWO]

Simone Rocha, the Pearly Queen, portrays, collection after collection, the coming of age of a girl wearing sumptuous, ornamented, magical garments. She knows about a woman's frailty, the torments regarding her femininity, the cornerstones of a woman's life and above all, she knows how to subvert these notions. Season after season, she depicts all these aspects through different times, different eras, different parts of the world. She has already imagined a collection around the Christlike figure of the Virgin Queen or around her childhood in Ireland, from a Victoriana point of view or a Japan-inspired one. For her AW16, she was deeply influenced by motherhood, the act of giving birth (who would not be?) and the result is light, ethereal, evanescent dresses mostly in pink, red or black. Tulle wraps the garments here like a protective yet fragile armor. As usual with Simone Rocha, the embroideries & embellishments are exceptional & exquisite. With the use of tweed, she is offering the female body a new structure, a body she is celebrating through sheerness, transparency & some cut outs here and there to let the skin show. This collection has also some raw edges such as the unfinished hems on the tweed outfits, with the hard/soft contrasts of colors (black flowers on pastel pink chiffon for instance). Sometimes, femininity is kept: large bows tightened around the neck, ruffled shiny satin burying the shape. Rocha's clothes are like precious jewelries thanks to these complex patchworks of fabrics adorned with pearls and flowers. We especially loved the black silhouettes, very powerful and so feminine. With Simone Rocha, there's absolutely no doubt you can be Pretty in Black.







Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed


Every J.W.Anderson collection is a tour de force. Each and every time, the designer is adding new pieces to his perfect wardrobe, new additions Yann has decided to name "Dubisms". Season after season, he proves (if we needed any more proof) the extent of his power of creation through experiments on fabrics, textures & colors. The J.W.Woman is provocative and is experiencing her femininity in the freest way. No inhibitions, no gender categories, she is just a free spirit! This time, his ideal wardrobe is composed of skirts with rainbow ruffles, of a rabbit fur hoodie bomber jacket, of silky trench coats waisted by giant metal stud belts, of an origami skirt paired with an oddly-shaped A-line top. This AW16 collection is a succession of weird & beautiful must haves such as the pillow skirts (a nod to himself since this cloud design already appeared in his previous collection), the tracksuits (we're not really fond of) composed of a tracksuit adorned with multiple zips & big sheer sleeves, puffa capelets and embossed puffa sweaters embroidered with a rose & paired with smock pleated cargo pants. Even the shoes & bags (as often with Jonathan Anderson) are insane and also possess these punk vibes, the vibes a woman who loves wearing J.W. needs to rock the city. She might be considered as a weirdo but she'd be the sexiest & collest weirdo we'd have ever seen!










Pictures by Evan Schreiber for Dazed


Collection after collection, Sibling has succeeded in bringing knitwear to another level of magic. The duo behind the brand is in the service of an inventive & innovative way of creating fashion. A beautiful & very poetical way. In their latest collection for Autumn Winter 2016, a tribute to Grace Jones, the ultimate Disco Queen, they have imagined knits with printed abstract patterns in blue, purple or black and have created showstopper coats & high-waisted wrap skirts. Their knitted jumpsuits are pieces you'll find nowhere else, there is so much technique, craftsmanship & patience behind those! This is a very Ready To Wear/Ready To Party collection with sexy vibes (the clothes adorned with safety pins for instance) and a definitely fun touches (especially in the giant handmade collars/scarves with fringe trims. Showstoppers! According to us, Sibling is the best ambassador of British knitwear and their unique savoir-faire is something that should be kept & celebrated. They stand for the best of London: tradition & modernity, terribly cool & undeniably fun. 







Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed



Words by Charles Margueritte & Yann Sackville-West




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