29/02/2016

ITALIANS DO IT BETTER!

If someone asked me about my definition of style I would say that it's a mix of boldness and uniqueness with a touch of my eccentric and colorful personality. Style is obviously a question of personality and I definitely want to be surprised in a good or a bad way. What I love about fashion is its idea of delivering unexpected delights meaning a garment that is full of inventiveness, innovation and also with a hint of something quite unexplainable making my heart beat very fast and my eyes bulge with my mouth wide-opened (Can you picture this stupid expression on my face?). I can be anything by definition as long as I am moved by it at first sight as if I were having a crush or falling in love. I'm convinced this reaction is the same emotion when someone is falling in love; I'm somehow cheating Charles when I am spending my time doing virtual shopping. I know I'm an obsessive person but I'm ok with that!

Marni is one the many Italian brands that are making my heart pounding very fast and furiously, certainly because Italians do it better. After allthey are the fashion industry atelier thanks to their sharp savoir-faire! Season after season, Marni is producing objects of desire for both women & men. Think of these big sleeves from the Autumn Winter 16 collection of Consuelo Castiglioni! These odd voluminous extensions of your arms are very dramatic and beautiful. Castiglioni is here introducing a new interesting silhouette that has a strong power of attraction. It is really ravishing just like the abstract, intense & so psychedelic clash of prints! This collection is all about the shape, the cut and the mix of textures & fabrics featuring geometric and graphic moments of pleasure: the white & blue wavy print in a loose ensemble for instance, a flower power top over an abstract multicolored rainbow skirt or big paillettes & pearly embroideries on a printed suit: the best way to make women beautiful.






Pictures by Federica Fioravanti


Arthur Arbessser for Iceberg is using the Japanese flag as a starting point for his AW16 collection. The mix of white & red is definitely powerful, add it a bright pink and it's a statement on the catwalk. The Japanese inspiration can also be found in the make-up with the models's expression accentuated by a strong & intense line of color. Arbesser is portraying young and restless girls who could be seen walking on the Shibuya crossing, wearing the splashes of red and pink together, definitely standing out of the crowd or just running to a club dancing to the sound of Italian disco. An intense check-board made out of pure shades of red and pink stripes is cut to create eye-catching pieces: a shirt to go over its matching printed skirt and a long sleeveless dress with the pattern that is coming apart are producing a viral effect. The check-board is taking another dimension when editing the seductive fur to give a new attitude to a modern wardrobe's staples ( bomber jacket, mini skirt, trousers). It's a pink/red drama out there in the streets! Maybe these colors are the new black, the ones that could be perfect no matter the occasion. Arbesser is also playing with shapes creating geometric and graphic pieces, imagining small and giant squares of colors. The logo of the brand is adorning some garments, printed on black & white pieces (knits, shirts and trousers) or embossed on leathers (bomber jacket and skirt). Irreverent vinyl coats and badass oversized puffa are the ones to buy, adding to this great collection a touch of underground.






Pictures by Federica Fioravanti for Dazed


Massimo Giorgetti, the designer behind MSGM banned social media before his AW16 presentation. He wanted to disconnect and reconnect the audience with fashion. What a thoughtful move! He wanted people to focus on his collection only, without watching the collection through the pictures taken, discovering and experimenting without screens or filters. This is another collection from the Milanese brand that is visually rich and bold, featuring chaotic patchworks of prints that are literally giving me chills. All my favorite things are components of this collection! A profusion of polka dots (automatically reminding of Comme Des Garçons & Yayoi Kusama), kitsch floral prints, mesmerizing gingham, mad stripes, neon laces; and some are unexpectedly mixed to create a distressed but beautiful, complex silhouette people would absolutely want to wear. This collection looks like the result of  multiple crazy ideas sewed together. Disconnecting/reconnecting and deconstructing/reconstructing to build up a wardrobe that demands all your attention.






Pictures by Martina Ferrara for Dazed


Words by Yann Sackville-West



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