14/02/2016

YEEZUS & FENTY

Fashion & Music are interconnected. That's no big news. David Bowie or Madonna are perfect examples of this very special link but these days, we are under the impression that things are getting faster. Now, every music superstar is sure that being on the top of the music charts & world gives them the right to become whoever they want to be. Boundaries are fading away for better or for worse. Before, the big stars were on the front row, now it's definitely not enough. The big stars have to be on the catwalk, walking or even better, backstage, "designing" the clothes. Clothes are not enough now. Customers want to buy an identity now. Clothes are not self-sufficient now. People want the clothes a superstar has "imagined". They want to be just like their favorite singers, they want to dive deep into their "creative" minds, to feel more important, more self-confident. More alive maybe? We are entering a weird and challenging era for Fashion. Everything is going mad, fast, big, big and bigger. These people do not need fashion but fashion desperately need these persons (and it's a shame). It is becoming a dangerous game. Like Cathy Horyn wrote a few days ago, when Anna Wintour chose to put Kimye on the Vogue cover, she did not do it to please the Kardashians or their fans but she did it to sell more, she did it because they are followed by an incalculable number of people and Vogue couldn't do without them (and once again that's a shame). So what's next? Will fashion realize that it has to change the deal to become relevant again? We don't want fashion to become a kind of gigantic ego trip going nowhere. This week, in the first days of the New York Fashion Week, we have just passed a new mark in the excessiveness & megalomania and unfortunately, it's not going to stop. 

Modelled on the size of his head, Kanye West chose to see things in a panoramic way this season to present his Yeezy Season 3 collection. With his show looking like a Hollywood production and forcing other designers to reschedule their shows, the Blitzkrieg machinery aimed at getting the consensus from everyone. And to make things even more titanic, our Dear Kanye decided to present his new album along with his "new" clothes + a thousand extras + some supermodels (Liya Kebede or Naomi Campbell) + the Madison Square Garden + a 90 minutes presentation + 16000 spectators + the whole Kardashian/Jenner family + an incredible front row. Do we really need to go further? The goal was clearly to break the internet because Kim's ass is not enough now. You could feel the frenzy on the social networks. People going mad, tweeting about the mise-en-scène, the songs, the guests, the "Fuck Nike" chanted by Kanye & the whole stadium but oddly enough, not that much about the clothes, the [caution: IRONY] wonderful creations of Sir Kanye looking like Yeezy Season 1 or Yeezy Season 2. Here it is! Kanye has achieved his ultimate goal! Being considered as a genuine member of the Fashion crowd. He must be so moved by his own talent & perseverance. He is holding the fashion world by its balls now. Bow down! Anna Wintour is now under Kanye's control and has nothing to say about being seated in the Kardashian's section during the show. King Kanye is, at last, getting the respect he was craving for (we think he should be seen by a shrink, we can see a big issue regarding an inferiority/superiority syndrom...). More generally, it is the whole fashion world that is suffering from this weird situation. The influencers now are not the most creative, the most talented ones. They are those who have the hugest number of followers. You can be the most boring fashion blogger on Instagram, if you have 50k followers or more, it's OK you're great & exceptional. Let's be clear, this clothes presentation is just a big mascarade. The purpose was to throw the biggest event of NYFW. The models were standing on a scene in the middle of the arena (almost reminding us of Géricault's le Radeau de la Méduse), far from the audience who couldn't get a real glimpse at the collection. They weren't even dancing to the beats of Kanye. They were here, motionless, emotionless, lifeless. Yet, behind these clothes, there were some good intentions: democratizing fashion with cheaper clothes, showing the largest diversity on a catwalk and speaking about the condition of refugees, all those fleeing their countries to find a "better life". However, all these good intentions fell flat, seemed way too literal and what about Naomi & others coming to the stage dressed in fur? Is it saying something about the refugees? We are missing a point here. And what about the Kardashians/Jenners clad (for some) by Olivier Rousteing and not Kanye? Is it really supportive & consistent? In other words, if we had something to write on Kanye's school report "Making progress but still not enough". 

Pictures via Vogue.com

First of all, what a surprise to learn that Rihanna's real name was Robyn Fenty. Using this name to label her brand new collection in collab with Puma is a new step and perhaps the best way to define her work. She seems to be telling us that these clothes are the real her. Here, it is not Rihanna designing clothes, it is Robyn Fenty. A much more sincere approach. Unlike Kanye, she wants to dissociate her work as an artist (after all, her album has been out for 3 weeks now) and her work as a fashion designer. She loves fashion, has a huge network and her style is unique (although sometimes questionable): she has boosted the careers of Adam Selman, Melitta Baumeister, Olivier Rousteing or Guo pei, she has made the Dior Mirror sunglasses an absolute must-have, she has worn Wang X H&M first and so on and so forth... The wardrobe she has imagined with Puma is just like her: cool, street, sexy, casual, irreverent, fearless. It seems wearable & affordable (though we do not know the price range yet). Monochrome clothes dedicated to all those who love some gothic street vibes (with the dark makeup). Long-sleeved, oversized hoodies (Lord knows Riri loves Vêtements), bomber jackets, tracksuits, crop tops: all these adorned with zippers aiming at showing some skin, with logos or endless lace-ups & styled with long, sheer stockings & heavy, high ranger shoes. Rihanna is bold and daring and so is her collection: see-through lace outfits, super sexy garments, cut-out garter jeans. Pieces that are not always new but reminding us of her streetstyle. Fashionable, eye-catching, strong & somehow vulgar. In short, all the reasons we love Rihanna.

Pictures by Susie Lau for Dazed
Pic via IMGModel Instagram Account

Are Yeezus & Fenty the new Adam & Eve of Fashion? The ones at the root of a brand new era in Fashion? Time will tell but one thing for sure, the one who will bite into the apple is definitely not the girl.


Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte




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