Martin Margiela's legacy is floating like a ghost over the fashion industry that, let's admit it, is in a terrible state, facing a serious disease: the lack of re-invention and creativity, growing like a cancer. Margiela is the man who has created fashion as we know it and his influence can be felt in so many collections from New York to Milan taking the form of a big pillaging or remaining inspirations; even if his name is never quoted as if people were afraid to pronounce it aloud. Is Margiela the new Voldemort?
The Autumn Winter 16 collection of Jacquemus named "Reconstruction" is full of Margiela-esque references. Even the name of the collection instantly makes you think of the Belgian designer. Unconsciously, Jacquemus is alluding to him because everything has already created before. It's not easy to present a collection that feels new after such an iconoclast designer as Margiela. Jacquemus is not trying to be the new Margiela, he is doing his own stuff, nothing more nothing less, establishing his own dialogue with fashion. He is living outside the industry in his own bubble-sphere and his creations are an expression of this daydreaming fantasy. His AW16 collection features a lot of Jacquemus classics: navy blue tailoring, pinstripes, oversize and circular shapes, trompe l'oeil, fun and fantasy. But experimentation and hybridization are also parts of the Jacquemus DNA. He wants to disrupt from what people are expecting him to deliver. This collection is pushing the limits, focusing on a voluminous and distressed tailoring in addition to complex draperies. I'm wondering if Jacquemus is now a grown-up designer or will he always be a child? The answer is obvious: the child inside him will always be here. The oversize flat pinstripe suit that is opening the collection has this ambivalence; both conceptual & fun. Think of the circular mini skirts, the tops and dresses that seem to be hanging on their own as if they were holding by invisible hands. It's pure magic. It's the kind of brilliant ideas that make you smile in a good way. Knots are also playing an important part in this collection, adorning and putting together the broken tailoring, illustrating the fusion of different pieces. A long coat is becoming a unique piece with a one side plaid jacket. The same effect is produced when a navy blue turtle neck knit is rebuilt with the help of knotted yellow sleeves. The shirts are getting another dimension in the proportions (with big shoulders) and in the patchworks of fabrics & colors. Just like a child I want to play like Jacquemus is playing with fashion and I want to wear his odd pieces. Life is a never-ending party so let's play the game!
Words by Yann Sackville-West