18/03/2016

I LOVE MIU

Just when you thought you had seen everything during the fashion month, here comes Miu Miu! One of the very last shows of the Paris Fashion Week proved once again that the brand's ability to surprise & stun knows no limits. After her superb Autumn Winter 2016 collection for her eponymous brand, a collection that is already acknowledged as one of the best of the season by such authorities as The Business of Fashion or Vogue.com (and by us too!), Miuccia Prada did it again and offered Paris a flamboyant finale full of supermodels (Lara Stone, Adriana Lima, Anna Ewers, Gigi Hadid, Malaika Firth, Joan Smalls, Binx Walton and so many more!), insane denim & some fabrics that could make tapestry cool again!

Miu Miu, the younger sister of Prada, is all about ambivalence & contrast. That's the Miuccia's touch. With the iconic designer, things mustn't be taken for granted and there is always a hint of irony in her collections. This Spring Summer season, the Miu Miu girl is a good girl gone bad with her nice dresses full of frills and her high high glittery heels. She could also be a 40s lady dressed up in denim or a girl coming from Les Parapluies de Cherbourg wearing plastic like no one else. I definitely love the Miu Miu girl because she is surprising and never boring. This time, Miuccia Prada imagined a collection playing both on masculinity & femininity, on the Low & the Profane, on the Hard & Soft sides of a woman. Take the opening look for instance, a denim jacket (with a detachable lace collar?) worn with a light blue shirt and white shorts looking like a man's briefs as if the Miu Miu girl had taken the first clothes she found to get dressed but without forgetting her pearl necklace, she's a lady after all! According to me, the Miu Miu girl is clearly summed up with this outfit. She is irreverent, bold but never forget to act like a lady.


Denim is a central theme throughout this collection and these gorgeous denim jackets (with patches and badges making them even more desirable) are developed and re-worked in different ways: a crop jacket with longer backs (almost like a tailcoat), one with utilitarian vibes (with multiple pockets and velvet yokes), the fusion of a denim jacket with a rich taffeta dress (worn with lace fingerless gloves or is it a lace shirt underneath? Katie Grand's tricky sense of style is driving me mad!), a cooler than cool trench coat or a floor-length coat worn with a floor-length denim skirt and a blue jumper. When re-worked by Miuccia Prada, denim is always becoming something far less trivial and much more luxurious. 



This collection is also a magnificent range of cocktail dresses from the white one looking at the same time like an oversized man's white shirt tightened at the waist and as a white sheet beautifully draped around the model's body (and worn with furry and bejeweled flip-flops... don't worry everything is perfectly normal here!) to a darker version of this dress but in a black taffeta and much more fabric; from the glamorous outfits looking like some kind of dresses Sophia Loren or Gina Lollobrigida could have worn in their young years to the lilac one that fortunately is worn by the fierce Lara Stone otherwise I would just have found it a bit kitsch (& cheap if I dare say...). 





Actually, this collection can be seen as a woman's journey from her early days as a woman in love, a woman who loved wearing her boyfriend's clothes (his briefs as seen before, his shirt, his argyle cardigan...) but with a twist, because the Miu Miu woman is and will never be literal (so she would add a pearl necklace, her favorite furry flip flops or in the most extravagant & nonchalant move, a long fur coat), a sensual woman who loves wearing light & silky garments looking like some delicate lingerie to her older days as a British Lady in a manor lost in the moorland. Here, she feels the need to wear coats, jackets, skirts & dresses in some tapestry fabrics (these coats are embellished in the most subtle and perfect way!), waxed utilitarian coats with furry muffs to go hunting or, to perfect this noble lady's portrait tweed outfits & twin set, a cocktail that might seem boring at first sight but under the Miuccia's treatment, always expect the unexpected!











All these pictures come from Vogue.com

Chaka Khan used to sing "I'm Every Woman" and that could have been the soundtrack of this AW16 collection. This is, as far as I can remember, the most eclectic & diverse Miu Miu collection I've seen! There is literally something for everyone. Of course, some party poopers could say it's messy & going in far too many directions but all I see here is a beautiful collection full of desirable & utterly feminine pieces, an ode to the sensuality of women, to their taste for risky & daring outfits. To sum it up, to their incredible strength. That's what, season after season, the Miu Miu woman is all about!



Words by Charles Margueritte



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