I love the idea of Rei Kawakubo's beautiful chaos, imagining her Dover Street Market stores as places where high end luxury, couture and street-wear brands encounter, everything at its right place. As I said before something is coming, changing the deal & pace of this industry or disrupting the system with a maximal savoir-faire. Think of the "couture collections" of Saint Laurent, Comme Des Garçons & Junya Watanabe showcased during the ready-to-wear schedule. These are collections that are demanding a lot of time to create, whose uniqueness is, in a way, disturbing. I can't help coming back to this idea of creating without limits, starting from scratch, trying to come up with something new because that's the very fuel of this industry. Perhaps I'm being wishful thinking but I deeply believe that creation should always come first. Creation has to rule, not trends!
Phoebe Philo brings the noise with Céline season after season, offering disrupted designs, breaking the internet in a subtle and silent way. I'm not using the word "silent" because of her would-be minimal ethos. Nowadays that does not make any sense. It's about her ability to surprise, to provoke, to derange with her ways of questioning femininity & beauty since her appointment at the head of Céline. She has her very own way to make her creations stand through the abundance of wardrobes and is producing pieces & accessories knowing no precedent, becoming staples of a woman's wardrobe, changing the definition of classic for ever. Her "Céline-isms" are copied by everyone, from high fashion to high street fashion. These plagiarisms only make her smile. Gabrielle Chanel used to say that when you are copied it means you are relevant. Philo doesn't care and never looks back. She is only doing the things she wants, thinking of what she wants to wear and has one goal: making women beautiful. When you think of what she has accomplished, one could think she would settle for re-editing her best hits such as her Spring Summer 2014 collection, which is one of my favorites because I'm a colorful person and I've never seen such fusion of textures before. These hybrid designs are putting her in a special position in this industry and Céline is a kind of luxury U.F.O.
Her Autumn Winter 2016 collection is a wardrobe of avant-garde clothes, illustrating Philo's ability to present showstopper pieces cut in the most uncommon fabrics. She is looking for the most incredible textures; some are recognizable, others remain mysteries. This collection features a lot of "Céline-isms", meaning newer additions to a woman's wardrobe. It's like a demonstration, establishing luxury classics with the use of the most bourgeois shades of colors (beige, tobbaco, ivory, white, navy blue...) The silhouettes are made of unexpected pieces that may look odd but that will leave you speechless. I don't even know how to name these pieces. Think of the opening look made out of a heavy dress/cape/tunic layered over some slouchy trousers. Think of the re-interpretation of a suit with the silk satin pajamas offering. Think of the neo-outerwear, the disturbing version or ghost of a trench coat re-shaped in different fabrics such as the lightweight leathers, in the most ravishing textures such as tweed or in high-end skin expertise with the use of alligator. The strong heavy outerwear pieces are perfectly blending with lightweight sophisticated silks. The opposition emerging from the structured tailored pieces when paired with asymmetrical shapes are creating a dramatic effect, definitely the Céline touch.
Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen for Dazed
Words by Yann Sackville-West
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