I'm finally understanding who is the Loewe Woman after three glorious seasons. Before the arrival of the fantastic Jonathan Anderson, people had no clue of who that woman was. I knew for sure that this woman was wrapping herself into expensive skins, dressing according to the iconic bags she could own. But, that's all. At that time, her name was not on everyone's lips. Honestly, I didn't know much about her and I'm sure the whole world could not picture who she really was, even though they had been loving what Stuart Vevers was doing. Can you remember that period? It wasn't a million years ago! I can't remember the Vevers touch, even wondering if there was really something to buy. No offence Mr Vevers! Charles reminded me of Penelope Cruz doing the campaign but that's all! Vevers is better off now, bringing Coach into the future and Anderson is slaying the fashion sphere with his Loewe collections. Everything is where it must be. Everything's fine!
Anderson is redefining the modernist codes of luxury by creating things we haven't seen before, trying to come up with a fresh silhouette every season. The mood of each and every Loewe collection is "sophisticated, curated and cool" far from the street fashion that is taking over the catwalks. We have seen a lot of slogan sweatshirts with exaggerated sleeves, grungy floral dresses and other MA-1 bombers, puffers or other sporty outerwear. For her part, the Loewe woman is all about an effortless femininity with a touch of humor and fun. The Autumn Winter 2016 collection is embodying this definition of beauty, focusing on a wardrobe of women's obsessions trying to remove the mystique surrounding it. Anderson is innovating with new shapes, textures and designs with, of course, the help of the Loewe technical expertise. Skirts & dresses are central in this collection cut to accentuate the shape of the body in a different and new perspective. The placement of every pleat is controlled and studied. Garments are meant to form a second skin here. Pieces are new variations just like the work-wear coats made of padded twill, articulating their utilitarian ethos in a new and unexpected way. Metal hardware is integrated into garments to create a familiar silhouette through inventive means. Everything is done while keeping up the art of refinery with flashes of wits and twits of humor. Anderson is not only playing with a woman's obsessions but with everybody's in accumulating objects just for the sake of having them or just for the unexplained pleasure they make us feel. It can be a garment, a bag, a jewelry, a pair of shoes or anything that could have a resonance in one heart making it beat faster. Something that one cannot resist just like the hand-painted napa neck pendant in the shape of a face's cat or the Joyce bag; a new addition to the Loewe hit accessories. Some of these irresistible objects are already available on the Loewe online shop thanks to our modern era of see-now/buy-now. How do you cope with all that drama? All these pieces are producing a viral excitement that could be hard to keep quiet. As far as I'm concerned, I'm not a girl not yet a Loewe woman so I won't dream of these objects of delight, torturing myself, wondering which pieces I will invest in but I will love to be part of the Loewe gang for sure. This gang is alive out there, standing in the streets, bringing drama wherever they are going, slaying them all like Queen B! Bitch! I'm back! Anderson is proving with this collection that he can beat Hermès on its own land. Poor Hermès! Do you think they will be able to cope? Can they do better than this? The future is still unwritten. So let's expect the unexpected!
Pictures by Evan Schreiber for Dazed Digital
Words by Yann Sackville-West