Quite an honour for Gosha Rubchinskiy to present his brand new collection for Spring Summer 2017 at the Pitti Uomo in Firenze along with such heavy names as Raf Simons or Visvim. What the Russian designer has achieved in such a short period of time is a tour de force. Of course, being part of this new generation of designers/stylists (Demna Gvasalia, Lotta Volkova...) helped him a lot but it is insane to see how his fans are numerous all over the globe and like, such brands as Supreme or Palace, these fans are hardcore ones and ready to spend long hours shopping on the web, looking for the best piece. However, we'd like to warn beginners that shopping Gosha Rubchinskiy is not an easy task! You have to be quick and well-prepared, otherwise your disappointment could be as big as your expectations (trust us, we know what we're talking about!).
Gosha's touch is definitely 90's sportswear & soviet cool. His 80's Soviet graphic tee-shirts are must haves and cooler than you can possibly imagine. With a touch of new wave & punk, he is slowly but surely reaching the stars, with a little help from, Comme des Garçons (his namesake brand is part of the CDG lines). His collabs with the legendary Japanese label are sold out even before spelling R-U-B-C-H-I-N-S-K-I-Y. The same rebellious spirit seems to liven up these brands and we're sure this particular aspect speaks to people/customers/fans. People want to wear clothes with a meaning, with a soul. Gosha is bearing with him the weight of the Russian street subculture and is transposing them into his clothes. His independent spirit is visible through all his work (fashion & photography); that's no surprise if all the cool kids of the planet want to rock his clothes. All these cool kids that could be part of his shows since castings are organized on the internet or in the streets; perhaps the best way to capture the spirit of the times and to show them that he cares about his young customers/followers/hardcore fans.
So what are his restless boys wearing for the next Summer season? You could be tempted to answer 90's sportswear. In a way, you'd be right but this time, Gosha Rubchinskiy is showing his collection in Italy, the land of masculine elegance so there had to be something more! This something more is introduced in the shape of a sharp tailoring; the three first looks are navy suits (the very 1st one being a pinstripe one) but we can also spot on the so-called catwalk (the show took place in the courtyard of an abandoned tobacco factory - to quote Lotta Volkova "the only Soviet-looking building in Florence") a stunning red double-breasted jacket, a piece coming again later but this time in a flash of metallic! This few pieces show the evolution of Rubchinskiy and his desire to be more than a sportswear designer. Yet, this is for these particular sportswear pieces that this show was highly expected; the least we can say is that he didn't disappoint his huge community at all. By using the logos of 90's Italian sportswear staples such as Fila, Kappa & Sergio Tacchini, and adding his own name to them the designer is paying a vibrant tribute to these brands we were all wearing in the 90's. But he is also satisfying his fans' hunger for logos, for branding, for a memory of a blessed era when normcore was the coolest trend; sweaters, hoodies, tee-shirts, tracksuits, tank tops - the complete wardrobe of a sportswear addict but beyond that, perhaps, an evocation of his years spent in Russia, before the end of the Soviet era, when all these brands were like sirens from another world. All these pieces are declined according to Gosha's favourite palette of colours: white, red, grey, black and a touch of neon yellow by the end of the collection (on sweaters, shorts, trackpants or tee-shirts) to add some punk vibes in a way.
This SS17 collection features also some very cool jackets in denim or corduroy, long or short, adorned with logo pins and definitely must-have pieces for the next Summer season! Here at W.A.R.M., we also particularly love the oversize striped sweatshirts in black & white or the yin & yang ones but the logo-embellished pieces are also on our shopping list. Actually, all the garments are really cool and telling you about our favourite pieces could take a long long time! By adding new pieces, new concepts to his wardrobe, Gosha Rubchinskiy made us love his work even more and we definitely cannot wait for the next chapter, the next collections, his next token of love to his large & faithful community.
Pictures by Virginia Arcaro for Dazed
Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte