One often tends to sump up the eighties with such words as "neon colours", "big shoulder pads" & "beehive hairdo". That's quite reductive to be honest. I was born in the eighties (I know what you may think...) and for me, this decade is much more than that. It is crazy, eccentric, exuberant. It refers to Madonna, Prince, Michael Jackson. It is synonymous with Saved By The Bell, Who's The Boss, Growing Pains or Alf. As far as I'm concerned, the 80's are a succession of good & great memories (perhaps because I saw all these years through my kid's eyes) and that's not a surprise if nowadays, they are back! We are experiencing troubled times and reflecting this morose state of mind in our clothes would be useless. Let's wear some glitter, some animal prints, some insane colours. Let's pretend we're coming from The Carrie Diaries. We can all be Zach Morris, Kelly Kapowski, Samantha Micelli or even Magnum (but here the moustache & Hawaiian shirt is inevitable) just for one day!
For his Resort 2017, Marc Jacobs chose to revisit the 80's, a decade that must mean something important to him since his eponymous brand was born in 1984 (with a first collection in 1986); he truly is a typical product of the 80's! For me, he stands for this careless spirit, this free state of mind. Regardless of trends, a bit like a Miuccia Prada, he designs what he genuinely wants to design and the least I can say is that he is the King of splits. Collection after collection, he surprises me and never ceases to amaze me with his unique point of view and his crazy mind! After a collection dedicated to Diana Vreeland (Autumn Winter 2015), one for the showgirls of New York (Spring Summer 2016) and one full of high high pumps, gothic vibes & cats/crows/rats (Autumn Winter 2016) my dearest Marc is back with our good old MTV years; those days when we discovered a brand new culture and a brand new way to dress. Those days when my mom cut her ginger curly hair for a platinum blonde pixie haircut. Those days when I spent my afternoon dancing in my parents' nightclub.
Everything is here to make this Resort 2017 collection a flamboyant ode to the 80's! Backstage Marc Jacobs told Vogue Runway that he "took Fall and made it kitsch". Quite a good summary of this collection with its complicated shoes (all my thoughts are with those 3 "poor" models who experienced difficult times on the runway), its lavish embroideries and its over-the-top styling. However, this collection is also much more than just a rehash of the Autumn Winter 2016. It is cooler than cool, more than desirable (with the MTV sweaters reminding me a bit of the Coca Cola ones) and filled with punk/tropical/girly/military/fluo-kids vibes. Everything at the same time! Are you really surprised? It is Marc Jacobs guys!
There is definitely something Punk in this collection; with the biker jackets that are heavily embellished with spikes, nails & chains, with the black & white checks that are screaming PUNK!!! (Time to get your B&W checked Vans back out!), with the creepers, the acid washed denim and above all, in the attitude. You must be a bit punk to mix all these prints, these colours, these metallic fabrics and yet, looking absolutely amazing. It takes a lot of "Don't Give a F***" to rock these pieces!
I have to admit that I am quite obsessed with everything a bit Tropical. I don't know why but my dreams are often filled with pineapples, flamingos and a luxuriant vegetation. Imagine my happiness when I saw all these exotic embroideries/adornments on the clothes. I don't need much to be happy. A pink flamingo here, a palm tree there and I'm the happiest person on Earth! Perhaps I just really need some vacation in a remote idyllic spot where the only thing I could worry about would be "When is my next cocktail coming?!" (Marc Jacobs knows me so well that he even put some cocktail glasses on his clothes!)
All these glitter elements, these embellishments make this collection very feminine or very girly instead. I think this collection could have been made for the late Marc by Marc Jacobs. It is so fresh, so young, so light. Lord knows girls love a good animal print!: zebra, leopard, snake coming in different colours. Some may find this kitsch & ugly but once again, few designers know how to transform the ugly into something cool & pretty. The abuse of neon colours could have turned into something hard to swallow & visually disturbing but I just want to keep the fun side of all this. The neon graffiti print on a bomber jacket (worn with a tutu skirt) is so cool & so desirable just like the improbable sportswear silhouette with the laser-eyed cat tee-shirt; a silhouette that could have come from Denver, The Last Dinosaur! I agree this is too much but as I often say life is too short to be boring all the time! And if you're not comfortable with this idea of looking like a neon Xmas tree fan of Modern Talking & Duran Duran you can opt for the evil doll dresses (don't you think these dresses could be worn by some mean & frightening dolls?) There is something for each and every one in this Resort!
gif via Tumblr
All these references could not fully satisfy Marc Jacobs, an adept of the TOO MUCH IS NEVER ENOUGH precept, so he also added some military vibes; a trend whose reign seems endless. Here, the camo print is revisited with tropical embroideries & all kind of patches and feminized with the help of such pieces as a leopard print coat or a silky dress.
The Resort business is getting juicier & juicier. Far from Cuba, Rio or London, Marc Jacobs chose to present his collection in his beloved New York City. Perhaps, the setting was just plain but he took me far away, in an effervescent & exuberant 80's nightclub where all the girls were dressed like there's no tomorrow.
All the Pictures come from the Marc Jacobs's website
Words by Charles Margueritte
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