Fire walks with the boys of LC:M (London Collection Men) Spring Summer 2017 as we're expecting the London designers to explore an extreme part of masculinity. Are the clothes you see on the catwalks all going to be produced? Are they really ready-to-wear? These collections are a mix of showstopper and wearable pieces. Some of them will be produced and other will be curated in museums. Some pieces will also be re-interpreted and others will be made on demand. The question of wearable garments is not what matters here. Innovation, uniqueness and creativity are what make fashion interesting. The ability of designers to deliver disrupted design is what fashion needs to carry on.
Newly graduated from the Royal College of Art, Per Gotesson has been selected by Lulu Kennedy to join the MAN initiative catwalk to present his first collection at LC:M. The Swedish-born designer is nailing a wardrobe that will surely help him gain a lot of followers. He is taking everyday life garments to another galaxy, exploring a new shape disrupting with the one we own in our wardrobe. Beautiful "fucked-up" denim uniforms that are re-interpreted into his own storytelling. Giant baggy trousers are paired with cropped workwear-style jackets. Casual silhouettes are encountering something sublime, poetic and magical. These garments are doing the talking, entailing a natural dialogue with fashion. These denim pieces are producing an intense and instant attraction. You just want to wear them now!
|Pictures by James Robjant for Dazed Digital|
What about Charles Jeffrey's Spring Summer 2017 collection? Do you think this is fashion with a Big F*** word? Do you think this collection could stand out through the fast-fashion landscape? Those considerations are not so important for Charles Jeffrey. He is trying to build something beyond the classical fashion brand. What he is doing is bringing back the underground energy to London fashion & clubbing scene through his collections and through the LOVERBOY nights. Of course, he is not talking to the masses but is certainly reaching a niche that is out there supporting him. He is much more than a sensation. I don't know if people can already buy his creations which are probably made to order for the moment. These pieces are full of soul and can be worn as weapons. Bondage & broken sharp tailoring, hand-painted sportswear, hardware embellishments, destroyed knitwear bring a new silhouette full of attitude. These "come as you are" garments are uniforms of peace, of freedom, of happiness, of love, of power. They are paying tribute to the past as much as celebrating the present: it feels good to be alive and to dress like you don't care because you are beautiful no matter what you're wearing as long as you are dressed up in Charles Jeffrey. Of course!
|Pictures from the Charles Jeffrey's Facebook page|
Words by Yann Sackville-West