Demna Gvasalia and his Vetements team have been putting the fashion industry upside down since their first presentation in a little apartment in Paris. Things have definitely changed now and their presence during the Couture Week is one of the most representative symbols of their influence over the whole fashion industry. In a few seasons, they have succeeded in making borderline fashion acceptable, deconstructing fashion, breaking the rules & the establishment, pushing all this industry forward, making people realize that there is another way of making fashion. This influence can be felt in every aspect of fashion nowadays: some are following them, some are inspired by them or some are already copying them. In a way, this increasing influence is similar to the 90's iconoclasts' one such as Martin Margiela or Rei Kawakubo who brought back the drama, the emotion, the reactions and a genuine dialogue with fashion; to sum it up they were putting clothes first!
This inventiveness knows no limits; they are redefining the luxury codes of ready-to-wear but they are, at the same time, questioning Couture which is the absolute definition of luxury! Couture is the very definition of a creation without any limits. Couture is like a laboratory of ideas making every crazy thing possible. But we must also keep in mind that Couture means hundred hours of handwork using the most insane techniques. Don't expect Demna to deliver sweatshirts or shirts demanding such long hours of work. Demna Gvasalia thinks a garment doesn't need all that savoir-faire to be labelled as Couture. Finding people with this savoir-faire is complicated so the best way to acquire it is working with the houses that have it. This "Couture collection is all about collaborating with brands from high fashion to high street that are experts in their field. Like a kid in a toy store, Gvasalia is playing with the couture process of creation, he is extending it to make his own rule at the end of the day. It's not Couture as you know it, it's Juicy Couture!
This Spring Summer 2017 collection (or Autumn Winter 2016/17 Couture?) is the ultimate collab as Vetements meets, for instance, Alpha Industries for the bombers, Manolo Blahnik for the stilettos, Eastpak for the bags, Comme des Garçons for the shirts, Carhartt for the apron dresses and the cargo trousers, Macintosh for the trench coats, Brioni for the tailored jackets, Schott for the leather shorts, Juicy Couture for the jumpsuits, Levis for the denim pieces etc...This idea of collab is pushed to its limits to become almost an abstraction, showcasing the collection on the luxury floor of the Galeries Lafayette putting the clothes in context among other infamous high fashion brands where garments are tried, bought; where all the magic happens! Is it really Couture with a big C? Is it a joke? The mise en abyme is complete! We're feeling dizzy!
All these looks are viral, styled by the sharper than sharp Lotta Volkova who knows good in composing a dress-to-kill outfit! Deconstructed jackets meets larger than life bombers worn on the shoulders like backpacks. Oversize Comme Des Garçons shirts are cut in classic cotton fabric purposely unbuttoned to show a bit of skin around the rib cage. The tight high heel boots are higher than ever almost reaching the waist. Few knits but a major appearance on the catwalk in the shape of rainbow warrior bright colored jumpers paired with the Schott leather jumpsuits.
The Spring Summer 17 wardrobe of Vetements is filled with pieces to remember and to wear now! Pieces producing an immediate reaction just like this whole collection actually. A love it or hate it effect that knows no tepid reaction. We already know that this collection will sell fast; pieces like the CDG shirts, the denim uniforms and even the Juicy Couture jumpsuits that make people laugh or roll their eyes. The deconstructed trench coats made by Macintosh are bringing a bit of sophistication, of Parisian chic, reminders of the Vetements first collections. This rich & dense wardrobe will gather the young and the grown-ups. Something that every fashion house is seeking. Pleasing everybody with sharp & radical outfits! Like it or not, Demna Gvasalia & his team do not care at all!
Pictures by Virginie Khateeb for Dazed
Words by Yann Sackville-West