With their latest collection for Spring Summer 2017, the Proenza Schouler proved one more time that they are among the most exciting designers of the New York Fashion Week (and Lord knows that this kind of designers is pretty rare over there). They delivered one of their best collections and definitely one of the most vibrant of the week, pushing their craft & technique even further. An insane riot of colors enhancing the silhouettes in the most effortless way. It's crazy to see how simple these clothes look while they are everything but simple! When the first model hit the catwalk, our hearts were already bouncing, beating like drums in our chest. That's the power of Jack & Lazaro, they are creating an immediate excitement with their magnificent creations putting forward craftsmanship over trends. All their silhouettes are embodying this process of creation; a perfect mix of ethnicity, incredible techniques and a unique way of catching the spirit of the times. The result is flabbergasting and far from looking overthought. In this collection, tradition is meeting Art & technology with a little help from priceless African & Japanese techniques. Thanks to the designers, the emotion of Fashion is very much alive & looking more flamboyant than ever!
This collection is all about the textures, tricky ones that are not what they seem. It's a festival of fabrics (leather, feather, fur...) and above all, an incredible palette of primary colors far from the neutral tones of their last collections. Life is exploding in their garments thanks to hues of blue, yellow or red & with the help of incredible adornments. We particularly love the color-block crochet dresses looking toward the Masai for inspiration. It is beautiful and completely coherent with the taste of the designers for techniques from other sides of the planet. This is definitely their strength! This ability to digest this passion for ethnic things & art and blend it with the most actual & cool fashion. Japan has also an important role in this collection with all the long dresses adorned by knots wrapping the bust; something reminiscent of the Japanese draping technique. Just like the complex construction of asymmetrical pleats structuring lightweight dresses (reminding us of Issey Miyake's work). The work on feathers is also spectacular with ostrich ones finishing woven hourglass-shaped tops. Burst of feathers also used to create striped tops & skirts. With these ones, the duo completely took our breath away! To tell you the truth, everything in this collection is mind-blowing; the abstract patterns of embroideries on the opening stretchy knitted dresses are also to remember/die for. And what to say of the styling, so actual, so fresh, so cool. We all want to wear our mink intarsia coat (What??! You do not own a mink coat?) with a tee-shirt knotted on the waist; we all want to look like a grunge goddess wearing our cashmere jumper under our 90s style long dress! We all want to wear these boxy tee-shirts & sweaters printed with symbols and inspired by the work of Bernini. They are definitely the pieces to shop and once again, they prove how up to date this collection is. Art is playing a central part in this SS17 collection. Just take a look at the accessories & earrings to be convinced; true works of arts needing a Julia Nobis's royal posture to be perfectly showcased. We can definitely classify the Proenza Schouler into these Art curator/designer category like Phoebe Philo or Jonathan Anderson. Their collections are like strolls into the most edgy museum. The final silhouette is here to put the boot in; a heart shape into a cashmere top courtesy of artist John Currin. Love is all we need. Love along with a touch of Proenza Schouler of course!
Pictures by Thurstan Redding for LOVE Magazine
Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte