Last day, Charles & I were discussing in the most "virulent" way about Alexander Wang's new direction and the least we can say is that we did not agree. Charles was saying Wang wasn't pushing the clothes far enough, just making clothes for the sake of making clothes, with not so much design, far from all the exciting experimentation of his first collections. Coming to his defence, I replied that all the work he did at his beginnings had allowed him to do what he is doing right now, i.e creating clothes that only him can deliver with that je ne sais quoi; something saying CLOTHES FOR THE WANGSQUAD ONLY! However, don't worry, you can be part of this squad too, you just have to own a larger than life attitude! For some collections now, Wang has been doing what he really wants to do without any pressure (at least, to all appearances), designing desirable garments people will want to wear; clothes for his family, his friends & all his followers.
His spring summer 2017 collection is a fresh bitch/beach please wardrobe producing an instant & overwhelming feeling of excitement. These are not see now/buy now but you immediately want to buy them and wear them considering this actual feeling that Summer is far from being over. The silhouettes are very sexy, cool, daring, magic, fun, irreverent, easy-to-wear, having a 90's vibe/hip-hop/streetwear/ with a bit of gangsta attitude; everything composing the Wang Touch. Actually, Alexander Wang's garments are just like him; young, energetic, creative and beautiful! And they are filled with a mysterious power; all the models on the catwalk look very fierce having no make-up (or at least a make up saying no make up), only wearing the kiss of the sun on their faces.
This Spring Summer 2017 collection is starting with deconstructed pyjamas (something quite reminiscent of Wang's last collection for Balenciaga but nonetheless desirable ) in the shape of shorty shorts, cropped shirts & tops, lace-adorned tailored pieces. Something dear to Wang are also all the utility apparel such as the inspired jackets & high-waist cargo pants. Swimwear tops wrapping the bust like bondage knots & silky dresses are here to assure the Wang Girl's position on the Sexiness Scale (supposing that such a scale does exist). Grungy flower prints are cut to create off shoulder blouses. Ripped denim or frayed pale blue denim are obvious but always welcome nods to the good old 90's. Grungy leopard coat, punk tattoo prints on shirts & trousers are the trashy guarantees of the collection (after the marijuana leaf print of AW16). Of course, there are also pieces showing Wang's technique such as the neoprene long dresses, or the lazer cutting insertion in some shirts (one of Wang's touches!). Being an ode to surfing days in some Hawaiian spots this collection also features twisted surfer-like suits, neon colored silky negligees, sequined dresses/skirts creating a mermaid tie-dye effect. In this SS17 collection, lace is definitely more and mesh is undeniably king. Finishing the collection with 90's bondage bustier long dresses is the best way to ravish us, sexing up the atmosphere & raising the temperature. To tell you the truth, after watching the show, even Charles was captivated.
With the bouncing Alexander Wang, enough is never enough and you can always expect some surprises here and there. This SS17 collection is no exception since he chose to close his show with the silhouettes from his forthcoming & highly promising/exciting/boiling collaboration with Adidas Originals. The all-black uniforms with a disruptive upside down Adidas logo immediately got us obsessed and longing for Spring 2017 to come fast & furious! What the what! All eyes are on this collab and we definitely all want a piece of it! But above all, we all want to be part of this cooler than cool Wangsquad.
Words by Yann Sackville-West