01/11/2016

YOUTH OF PARIS

Afterhomework Paris definitely owns rue Saint Maur where their headquarters are located (10th &11th district) just like Chanel owns Rue Cambon or Comme des Garçons owns the district of Aoyama in Tokyo. This may seem quite extreme to say so but this is the feeling I am getting each time I'm going to the brand's shows. This street is just like this young avant-garde brand; independent, young, frantic. Something is definitely changing in this street and its neighborhood as they are bringing the chaos of creativity there, gathering fashion people to attend their presentations! A young gathering of boys & girls, friends & lovers, bloggers & media, religiously waiting as if they were waiting for the mass to start. Everybody's waiting for a unique celebration, an ode to the youth of Paris and to a certain extent to a youth from all over the world!

Season after season, Pierre Kaczmarek (the creator & designer) and Elena Mottola (his girlfriend & artistic director) are infusing a new dynamic to the Afterhomework Paris wardrobe by adding pieces you couldn't forget and will definitely want to wear! The AW16 silhouettes are still haunting us such as the dress adorned by hats or the oversize hoodie and its asymmetrical shapes. We have ended up thinking we'd love to wear all the looks because they are all so special, having their own magic hidden behind the layers of wool & cotton. Way too hard to choose! Apart from the breakout shapes and textures of these pieces created by Pierre Kaczmarek, emotion & a certain lyricism naturally come out of the clothes; simply because the designer's collections are about clothes having something to say, embodying a message. Clothes with a soul, a young soul, an independent, creative, beautiful, irreverent, rebel, thinking, fighting, strong soul. 






The spring summer 2017 collection brings up this kind of inexplicable drama that instantly makes our hearts bouncing very fast thanks to clothes producing an intense attraction. Japaneses would undoubtedly use the word SUGOI (Super!) to qualify this collection!  Pierre & his team are delivering a wardrobe of things they want to wear, resulting from their own experiences in the "fashun-sphere" and inspired by everything surrounding them: the streets, life and more generally, anything they have done/felt/experienced after the AW16 collection. These SS17 silhouettes are coming out of the experience of life. They are uniforms dedicated to the youth and worn as weapons of massive destruction. Uniforms to empower them and put them on a pedestal! Uniforms capturing anything they have experienced IRL, their relationships with fashion, with people. Powerful clothes with a powerful message.

Pierre Kaczmarek is creating clothes with a unique edge, with a very personal perspective. Collection after collection, he is establishing his very own dialogue with Fashion as a result of personal experiences, of things young people could experience nowadays. He is close to reality, close to his city, to the people around him; far from the cliché of a fashion designer living in an ivory tower. His garments are dedicated to the young & restless people; deconstructed uniforms to make the lucky wearer powerful & irreverent.

That Saturday of October, I truly lived a viral runway experience; first with the benches & seats wrapped up in black plastic similar to trash bags and then, with the clothes. Sharp Klein blue meeting acid fabric treatment. Cut outs & slits. Cropped, exaggerated or asymmetrical shapes; something Pierre Kaczmarek is really fond of. Heavy wool meeting soft cotton meeting low & profane vinyl like shiny fabrics; a clash of textures embellished by hardware jewelries such as big chain necklaces. I also completely fell in love with more hybrid & oneiric garments like a top entirely made of ties (the tie being perhaps the symbol of a modern man smothering under conventions & a business routine) or shoes made with 2 pairs of Converse stuck together (the designer explained this weird concept as a metaphor for all the people trying to walk all over him). This is a very clever way to go from disruptive garments to a complete & somehow beautiful abstraction.





























Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Marguerite



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