Is it the right time to talk/write about Resort collections? I am quite confused to tell you the truth. People often say that there's no season anymore! Summer in Winter and vice versa but this is the same thing for Resort collections! Or is it Pre-Spring? Or maybe Cruise? Quite confusing as well! Some brands are launching Resorts and others are talking about Pre-Spring or Cruise. What's the difference? One thing for sure, the goal is business & at the end of the day, money! Pre-Fall lookbooks are dropping these days but some brands are still releasing their Resort just like Marques'Almeida. So is there really a perfect timing for this kind of collection? May for Chanel or December for J.W.Anderson? The month doesn't really matter as long as you're making an impression! At that game, we think that once again, Balenciaga scored a point.
At the beginning of the week and quite unsurprisingly Demna Gvasalia won the International Ready To Wear Designer Award at the British Fashion Awards (while his brand Vetements won the Urban Luxury Brand). Charles & I were surprised he came to grab his award. Secrecy seems to be a way of life for Mr Gvasalia. That night, some peeps on the net tweeted that it was definitely the victory of Anti-Fashion. Are you serious guys? Don't fall into that trap! Just look around you in every fast fashion store, in every city, all over the world and see if what Demna Gvasalia & his team design is something confidential. I don't think he is very anti-something as he responded to the BFAs invitation and came to accept his award. This attitude is not very anti-system and his brand cannot be defined as underground. Just think about the infamous blitzkrieg sale during the Hera Seoul Fashion with the big ephemera official fake collection they imagined with the help of online shop Matches Fashion! That's not anti-fashion at all even though it appears as if! Don't be mistaken by this trash & underground aesthetics, Vetements is not Anti-Fashion at all. Moreover, I don't think it's relevant to use this term nowadays; Anti-Fashion is, according to me, something completely connected with what occurred in the 90s. This is not Anti-Fashion, this is simply genius! Just like everything Demna & his team are accomplishing, killing it with their new vision of luxury, infusing their magic into objects of intense desire, playing with the system while remaining borderline. This is the real stroke of genius! We all want to play with these new objects of fetishism. Demna Gvasalia knows how to underline this part we all want to hide: accumulating objects that make sense for each and every one of us - fetishism in a way. He brilliantly re-vamped Balenciaga after the Wang episode (and the unforgettable Ghesquière Era) and put the couture house under the spotlights once again! For Spring Summer 2017, he applied his "fetishism" concept to Balenciaga creating spandex boots-trousers or using latex & other materials having a sexual resonance. And once again, people will buy everything even the most incongruous things like these giant Moroccan pouffes inspired bags! Think of the multicolored & gigantic "Barbès" bag that quickly became what we may call a "hit" bag! The "Morrocanish" vibes are the starting point of the Resort 17 collection when you think of these long striped dress-shirts in primary colors looking like djellabas, obsessing djellabas to be honest. We are already obsessed! We are once again trapped in Gvasalia's net and this Resort collection (even though we're not sure of this Resort concept at the end of the day) has made us completely BALENCIAGAGA!
Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte