29/02/2016

ITALIANS DO IT BETTER!

If someone asked me about my definition of style I would say that it's a mix of boldness and uniqueness with a touch of my eccentric and colorful personality. Style is obviously a question of personality and I definitely want to be surprised in a good or a bad way. What I love about fashion is its idea of delivering unexpected delights meaning a garment that is full of inventiveness, innovation and also with a hint of something quite unexplainable making my heart beat very fast and my eyes bulge with my mouth wide-opened (Can you picture this stupid expression on my face?). I can be anything by definition as long as I am moved by it at first sight as if I were having a crush or falling in love. I'm convinced this reaction is the same emotion when someone is falling in love; I'm somehow cheating Charles when I am spending my time doing virtual shopping. I know I'm an obsessive person but I'm ok with that!

Marni is one the many Italian brands that are making my heart pounding very fast and furiously, certainly because Italians do it better. After allthey are the fashion industry atelier thanks to their sharp savoir-faire! Season after season, Marni is producing objects of desire for both women & men. Think of these big sleeves from the Autumn Winter 16 collection of Consuelo Castiglioni! These odd voluminous extensions of your arms are very dramatic and beautiful. Castiglioni is here introducing a new interesting silhouette that has a strong power of attraction. It is really ravishing just like the abstract, intense & so psychedelic clash of prints! This collection is all about the shape, the cut and the mix of textures & fabrics featuring geometric and graphic moments of pleasure: the white & blue wavy print in a loose ensemble for instance, a flower power top over an abstract multicolored rainbow skirt or big paillettes & pearly embroideries on a printed suit: the best way to make women beautiful.






Pictures by Federica Fioravanti


Arthur Arbessser for Iceberg is using the Japanese flag as a starting point for his AW16 collection. The mix of white & red is definitely powerful, add it a bright pink and it's a statement on the catwalk. The Japanese inspiration can also be found in the make-up with the models's expression accentuated by a strong & intense line of color. Arbesser is portraying young and restless girls who could be seen walking on the Shibuya crossing, wearing the splashes of red and pink together, definitely standing out of the crowd or just running to a club dancing to the sound of Italian disco. An intense check-board made out of pure shades of red and pink stripes is cut to create eye-catching pieces: a shirt to go over its matching printed skirt and a long sleeveless dress with the pattern that is coming apart are producing a viral effect. The check-board is taking another dimension when editing the seductive fur to give a new attitude to a modern wardrobe's staples ( bomber jacket, mini skirt, trousers). It's a pink/red drama out there in the streets! Maybe these colors are the new black, the ones that could be perfect no matter the occasion. Arbesser is also playing with shapes creating geometric and graphic pieces, imagining small and giant squares of colors. The logo of the brand is adorning some garments, printed on black & white pieces (knits, shirts and trousers) or embossed on leathers (bomber jacket and skirt). Irreverent vinyl coats and badass oversized puffa are the ones to buy, adding to this great collection a touch of underground.






Pictures by Federica Fioravanti for Dazed


Massimo Giorgetti, the designer behind MSGM banned social media before his AW16 presentation. He wanted to disconnect and reconnect the audience with fashion. What a thoughtful move! He wanted people to focus on his collection only, without watching the collection through the pictures taken, discovering and experimenting without screens or filters. This is another collection from the Milanese brand that is visually rich and bold, featuring chaotic patchworks of prints that are literally giving me chills. All my favorite things are components of this collection! A profusion of polka dots (automatically reminding of Comme Des Garçons & Yayoi Kusama), kitsch floral prints, mesmerizing gingham, mad stripes, neon laces; and some are unexpectedly mixed to create a distressed but beautiful, complex silhouette people would absolutely want to wear. This collection looks like the result of  multiple crazy ideas sewed together. Disconnecting/reconnecting and deconstructing/reconstructing to build up a wardrobe that demands all your attention.






Pictures by Martina Ferrara for Dazed


Words by Yann Sackville-West



28/02/2016

GUCCI GALORE


The fact that Gucci is presenting his collection the day after the end of London Fashion Week makes perfect sense! That's the best transition between the craziness of the British designers and an elegance, we could define as, purely Italian. Gucci is the perfect mix between elegance & craziness. Elegance in the shapes, fabrics and because Gucci is a staple of Italian luxury. Craziness because of all the visual elements tickling our eyes & curiosity and above all, making us forget how Gucci was before Alessandro Michele's arrival. Can you remember Frida Gianini's era for the brand? I simply cannot. It seems that the new designer, the new It Boy of Fashion, the new Mogul have been here for years! He has transformed the face of this noble Italian house for good and beyond that, he has opened a brand new chapter for Fashion. His influence can be felt everywhere from New York to Paris. He has brought the image of eccentric grandma up to date (Was it fashionable once? That is the question) and has given a new dimension & new definition to the expression "Embellishment Galore". Michele's creations are filled with exquisite details, delicate embroideries & extraordinary embellishments. Diana Vreeland used to say that "The eye has to travel", it seems he took this advice literally to imagine collections transcending the notions of good taste/bad taste. Fashion has a new Hero and the fact that celebrities (Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman, Florence Welch, Kirsten Dunst, Madonna...) all want to wear Gucci is another proof that his power is unlimited & he's here to stay!

I was expecting everything from Alessandro Michele & Gucci for Autumn Winter 2016. I have been literally obsessed with this brand since its reboot more than a year ago [read here, here, here, here & here]. Though I have written about each and every collection since the first collection back in January 2015, I have never got tired. Gucci is talking to the creative part of my brain, to my imagination that only wants/needs some entertainment. Of course, I can already hear all the mean people talking about how Gucci looks the same season after season, how Alessandro Michele seems to love resting on his laurels. And I can answer them you're wrong guys! Rebooting a brand is all about redefining an identity, consistent with what it used to be. It's all about adding new essential pieces to your wardrobe collection after collection. Rome wasn't built in a day! According to me, this AW16 is already telling something new about the brand, something giving it a new dimension and a new thickness.

First and above all thanks to the collaboration with NYC artist Trouble Andrew a.k.a Gucci Ghost, an artist obsessed with the brand and who loves tagging the double GG in his neighborhood, on decrepit walls, bins...etc; a sharp contrast between the places where he chooses to tag and the status of über luxury brand of Gucci. What is surprising here is that, instead of suing the artist for an inappropriate use of the logo & brand image, instead of not considering it as relevant Alessandro Michele chose to put him under the limelight. He gave him the opportunity to express his love for Gucci on different pieces; either with the GG tagged logo or with such words as "REAL" or "LIFE IS" spray-painted on jackets/coats or bags. The result is so desirable, I bet these pieces will become absolute must haves the day they will hit stores! This collab completely goes hand in hand with the re-building of the brand and with the street vibes the designer wants to inject in his collections.








 Backstage Pictures by Martina Ferrara for Dazed

Detail Pictures via Vogue.com

Once again, this collection is a melting pot of inspirations & a constant back and forth between different time periods. Of course, the 70s are still here, they are part of the brand's DNA! These 70s silhouettes are romantic, evanescent and most of the time, very dramatic. With the ruffles everywhere, the small (or on the contrary, large) bows, the frills, the wallpaper prints. All these embellishments having at the same time, a bourgeoise & crazy lady touch. Never forget that with Alessandro Michele, too much is never enough! And I absolutely love this idea!














 Detail Pictures via Vogue.com

Backstage Pictures by Martina Ferrara for Dazed

We can feel also some tribute looks to Yves Saint Laurent and his 1971 Collection du Scandale with the total monochromatic colored outfits (in pink or yellow) with very editorial fur coats and this "bourgeoise bitch" look and in the tuxedos that could be seen as pauses between the visual fireworks, the accumulation of anything you can imagine to embellish an outfit. These tuxedos once again give the power to women. You have to be strong and powerful to wear Gucci, to feel self-confident and rock these maximalist outfits.

Pictures via Vogue.com

What is new in this collection are the nods to the 80s in cooler than cool Ready To Party silhouettes: a total leather look composed of a biker jacket & a skirt, a glitter & sheer skirt worn along with maxi shoulder pad top looking like two parrots -something very Jean Charles de Castlebajac- or with a glitter sequined red & pink tuxedo. The common point between these three outfits are the broad shoulders, so characteristic of the 80s woman and so symbolic of how strong they are.

Picture by Martina Ferrara for Dazed

Pictures via Vogue.com

And what to say of the 90s touch with a mega bleached denim jacket with furry cuffs worn over a plain white tee-shirt and a tropical printed skirt (and of course, white socks & green heels)? A californian inspiration for an easy & cool silhouette that could be easily completed with a skateboard.

Picture via Vogue.com

I could easily go on and on about Gucci but I think you got my point. I love Gucci because it doesn't follow trends. Gucci is the trend, the Renasciminento of Fashion and a wonderful alternative to the boring looks we can see too many times on the catwalks. Alessandro Michele knows how to bring fantasy to a Fashionista's life with his works of art, his heavily embellished creations, his journey through ages, his nods to Far East, to the clubs of New York or the California beach. Though it is creating quite a mess in my head (I'm always torn between a need to write about every look and a need for conciseness), writing about his work makes me smile and dream. I could look at the detail pictures for hours and could inundate our Instagram account with pictures of the collection! But I have to calm down and stop here! After all, the Fashion month is not over yet and I have to keep some energy for the rest of the collections. And Gucci will make his comeback soon enough on our Blog with the Cruise Collection presented at the beginning of June in London in Westminster Abbey! To tell you I'm excited would be a euphemism!



Words by Charles Margueritte