30/04/2016

RUMOUR HAS IT

Fashion never stops. Not a single moment to breathe, to rest, to set your ideas. Taking a moment for yourself is taking the risk to lose ground, to be overtaken by events, to be forgotten or even worse, to become has-been. That's the way it is, at every level, from top designers ( look at Raf Simons who left Dior to have time to create, to find inspiration, to focus on his namesake brand) to humble bloggers just like us. One day without anything on our blog or on Instagram is taking the risk to lose audience. Fashion is exhausting but this is, at the same time, so exciting, so exhilarating. Fortunately. 

The frantic pace of the Fashionsphere is not the only thing tiring me these days. Have you noticed how many rumours about fashion are spread every month, every week? Not a single week without a "breaking news" about some designer replacing Raf Simons at Dior. The most recent example was Jonathan Saunders who was said to have signed with LVMH. This news was even enthusiastically emphasized by some media that thought clever to confirm even before the über-powerful group. And of course, this proved to be a fake. One more in an ocean of misinformation, of desperate attempts to drag people to their websites, to click and click again for a disappointing result. So what's next? Who will spread the next hot rumour that will excite & put the Fashion world into another trance? Who will be cynic enough? 


However, cynicism is not the only "quality" you need to have to spread a good and effective rumour. Above all, you need to be lazy. This is so much easier to write about some would-be stuff than writing about real fashion, the genuine one, the intriguing one unraveling before our eyes. We are experiencing weird times when an easy way out is much more profitable than hard work & good words. A bit like all the things going on with this "Amazing Kardashian/Jenner Family". Much more easier to write about them, their outfits and their existential problems than talking about deserving artists & designers. Money makes this system works, I get it, I am not an idealist but it is sometimes painful to see what people/media are ready/able to do in order to increase their traffic, their sales, their exposure. I'd love to have a wider audience for W.A.R.M. (who wouldn't?) but I am not ready to do anything and especially to write about things I don't believe in & truly love.

Rumour is easy. It costs no money, spreads at great speed and it nearly always sells. So let's have an overview of the most recent Fashion rumours. 



- Karl Lagerfeld would leave Chanel after his Cruise 2017 collection in Cuba.
Do you really believe in this one? A big joke!
Kaiser Karl once said that "for [him] working was like breathing and if [he] do[es]n't breathe, then something is going wrong". Perhaps people are tired of those Dior rumours so they've found a brand new scapegoat, a brand new monument to target. Please guys, leave Fashion gods alone! And above all, don't even think about making up a crazy story about Miuccia Prada. Some persons on this Earth deserve respect. R-E-S-P-E-C-T you know this notion people tend to forget about?! And frankly, a sentence with both "Lagerfeld" and "retirement" would sound so so weird?

- Hedi Slimane would start his own label after being spotted in Qatar.
Perhaps. After all, this may be the least stupid rumour in a while. Yet, let's just wait. Fashion crowd is so obsessed with Slimane getting his own namesake label that every occasion to speculate about it is worthy. I once spotted Lil Kim in Qatar too and yet, no mention of a Lil Kim fashion brand... So sad... Just kidding. Beware, if you see once Hedi Slimane visiting North Pole, he would undoubtedly start some frozen food business... Perhaps he was just visiting Qatar to get some tickets for the 2022 Soccer World Cup! You see I'm not that bad at inventing stupid news. 

And last but not least, my favourite one! 
- Raf Simons would replace Francisco Costa & Italo Zuccheli at the head of Calvin Klein.
The Raf Simons topic is just as burning as the Hedi Slimane one. They have an extraordinary aura and their power of attraction knows no limits at all. Simons's departure from Dior was a total shock and ever since, LVMH have found it hard to find him a proper successor (don't worry Jonathan Saunders is coming!). Ok, now, Raf Simons is happy with his eponymous label but people are hungry for more. Two menswear collections per year is not enough for them so what's best than fantasizing about him coming to Calvin Klein for both menswear & womenswear? I agree that his aesthetics would perfectly match the US giant's ones but let's be honest, do you really think that he would have left Dior to join Calvin Klein? Let's all remember that he wanted more time to live, visit exhibitions & create. Not sure he will be able to do so if he embarks on such an adventure! And if it is eventually the case, people at LVMH will be seriously pissed off.

So now we are all familiar with fashion rumours, let's invent some! Please always keep in mind that the most ludicrous one will be the most read, talked about, clicked on, shared. Time to be stupid guys!

- The next hot fashion collab would be H&M X Zara.
- Demna Gvasalia doesn't really exist, it's just a hologram invented by Martin Margiela.
- Donald (Duck not Trump) is suing Olivier Rousteing because he is the one who invented the duck face.
- The new face of Supreme would be Diana Ross because after all, she is the most Supreme of all the Supremes.
- Marketing people are working on a brand new & exciting project: "See Never, Buy Now". Exciting, isn't it?
- People at Coachella are not here to listen to music but to show their own vision of the Folk/Bohemian/Ethnic trend. Wait, that's not a rumour...


All the gifs come from Tumblr


Words by Charles Margueritte



29/04/2016

PRAY YOU CATCH ME







NEW LOOK Bomber Jacket
WEEKDAY Black Top
WEEKDAY White Long Tee-Shirt
NEW LOOK Jeans
CHEAP MONDAY Necklace
CHEAP MONDAY Bracelet
& OTHER STORIES Sunglasses
UNDERGROUND Creepers



26/04/2016

24/04/2016

W.A.R.M. TOP 10 [04/24]

1/ The Magazine Covers: DOCUMENT JOURNAL SS16

 Stella Tennant by Willy Vanderperre

 Natalie Westling by Colin Dodgson

 Lexi Boling by Roe Ethridge

Rianne van Rompaey by Colin Dodgson


2/ The Viral Moment: Beyoncé's LEMONADE out NOW



3/ The Talk Of The Town: Italo Zucchelli & Francisco Costa out @CalvinKlein! Raf Simons in?

by Tyrone Lebon


4/ The Lookbook: Gosha Rubchinskiy AW16

Directed by Avdotja Alexandrova





5/ The Model: Paul Hameline by Willy Vanderperre for DAZED Summer 16



6/ The Music Video: Rihanna - Needed Me 



7/ The Collection: Cheap Monday AW16 [via Highsnobiety]



8/ The Movie Trailer: Café Society directed by Woody Allen 



9/ The Editorial: California Dream by Hedi Slimane starring Anna Ewers for Vogue Paris



10/ The Tribute:  RIP Prince




Made by Charles Margueritte



22/04/2016

KILL TO WEAR/ DRESS TO KILL

Fashion is constantly under construction, things cannot be taken for granted. There are no rules. Everything is undergoing a complete & quite exciting mutation. What was working in the past cannot go on in our present days. There has to be another way of making fashion in terms of creation, presentation and marketing. Regarding this era of social media & over-communication we're experiencing, there are obviously good and bad things. Fashion must face all these challenges to be able to go forward. Slowing the pace of the industry, disrupting the fashion week schedule, taking time to focus on the creation and of course responding to the huge demand of sales is inevitable. However, don't be mistaken, fashion is a juicy business, it's just a period of transition not a crisis.

Take for instance street-hardcore avant-garde brands like Vetements that are, season after season, collection after collection, disrupting the industry with their luxury price goods, with their re-interpretation of garments creating modern uniforms the whole world wants to wear. All these pieces are embodying the Vetements touch, a weapon of massive chaos, putting our minds upside down, disturbing the Parisian fashion intelligentsia in only two seasons. But, Western countries are not the only ones experiencing such a revolution, on the other side of the planet, in the far far East coast of the Asian continent, South Korean is taking over the Fashion sphere with an army of streetwise brands the world would kill to wear!

ADER error is one of them. Based on an ideology of simplicity with a wardrobe expressing modernity, it is reinterpreting classics of the streetwear ideology combined with a minimal vibe. Each collection is paying tribute to 90s youth subcultures and gives what people want to wear i.e simple & unique shapes: uniforms that can be worn over and over and over without losing their power of attraction. Logo sweatshirts with exaggerated sleeves, oversize color block knits, 90's denim, funny slogan tees and socks & bombers are designed according to the ADER standard of coolness. All these pieces are unisex and can be ordered online!









This era of extreme social media interactions also has good sides! Thanks to it and to my beloved wanderings on online shops, I came across ANDERSSON BELL. Actually, it's a Scandinavian brand based in South Korea. It's about tying to slow down the pace and thinking deep about fashion, coming up with a daring silhouette inspired by the 90s youth subcultures. They are putting the focus on the clothes, producing valuable garments and are editing new classics season after season, building a sustainable wardrobe, adding or re-thinking staples of everyone's closet. This is really dress to kill unisex pieces people would love to adopt right here, right now!




PS: Don't hesitate to visit their websites, these two innovative & desirable brands are really affordable, you'd be surprised!



Words by Yann Sackville-West



21/04/2016

NO ENTRY







TOPMAN Premium Coat
CHEAP MONDAY Long Shirt
WEEKDAY Tee-Shirt
NEW LOOK Jeans
RAY BAN Sunglasses
ADIDAS Tubular Sneakers


19/04/2016

LOSE YOUR MIND IN ANTWERP & AMSTERDAM

This time of the year is definitely my favorite one! It's the time of blossoming flowers & flourishing sample sales in every fashion city, from London to Paris, from Stockholm to Copenhagen and of course from Antwerp to Amsterdam. These last two cities are full of beautiful and unique vintage stores that I haven't seen anywhere else. I haven't traveled all over the world yet, but I'm a connoisseur, knowing the best shops to visit in all the cities I above mentioned. Every city has its number of must-go places but as far as I'm concerned I think Antwerp is definitely a city where the shopping experience knows no precedent! Antwerp, as we have already said, is the Mecca of Fashion! I have in mind a few addresses of shops to visit, especially of vintage shops like Rosier 41 and Labels Inc both known for curating archive pieces from The Antwerp Six, from Raf Simons, from all the brands that are hot out here in the fashion-sphere! Before our trip to Antwerp I had big expectations and wasn't disappointed. I tried a lot of damn good archive Raf at Rosier, but there were also eye-catching pieces from Margiela, Comme des Garçons, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten... You could easily imagine my excitement searching for some treasures on the filled racks! However, choices had to be made! This shop almost killed me literally! Labels Inc is another prerequisite if you're fond of vintage stores selling beautiful pieces. This one is curating pieces that you can only find here, curating the avant-garde, the designers that make fashion really exciting! These two shops are filled with pieces that could be worn over and over without losing their magic & their power of disruption. On my way to Amsterdam I realized that I should have rescheduled my trip at the end of April because it's the time of titanic stock sales and gigantic sample sales like the one from Raf Simons! Next time I'll be much more organized! You may think I'm completely crazy when it comes to shopping but this is serious stuff guys, some things must be taken seriously! And after all, life is short so let's enjoy these little & comforting pleasures. Anyway, if you're in Antwerp don't be afraid to go off the beaten tracks and to explore some smaller streets where you'll come upon some little shops just like Vier, a shop reflecting the street vibe modernity of Antwerp.



We were comforted by the unexplained charms of Amsterdam and its streets filled with intriguing beauty. Compared to Antwerp, it was a different kind of shopping experience but nonetheless completely enjoyable & satisfying! We visited the Black Comme Des Garçons store in some kind of Chinatown parts of the Red Light District known for its infamous coffee shops and houses of pleasure! For me, this visit was like a voyage because the store has opened recently and also because you can only have a glimpse of the Black line by going to one of its stores (unless, of course, you're lucky enough to live in a city where there is a Dover Street Market). An intense, deep and dark atmosphere just like the smell of Comme des Garçons fragrances pervading the atmosphere. I was in heaven! You should also wander in the maze of streets around Rokin (the most visited street of the Ducth capital) that are filled with high street retailers but above all, because there is a beautiful & large Weekday store. A label we particularly love and that is also featuring such brands as Cheap Monday, Back or Vans. 
Cowboys To Catwalk on Utrechsestraat is unique. This boutique is stocking only menswear collections with many Comme Des Garçons lines like Ganryu, Junya Watanabe, Homme Plus as well as other brands like Our legacy or Stussy meeting, on the same hanging rails, Lemaire and Dries Van Noten. They also have also a sharp sneaker offer. Actually, this store made me think of a smaller version of Dover Street Market, mixing high end fashion with more affordable brands. When into this cool space, you are warmly welcome by the kindest sale assistants who doesn't rush you to buy anything, but instead gives you advice, revealing other secret places the city may offer, somehow helping you to get lost in the good way, trying to satisfy your intense desire to discover.

If you're considering going to Antwerp or Amsterdam, here is a list of the shops that will make you lose your mind!

BLACK COMME DES GARÇONS
Zeedijk73, Amsterdam




COWBOYS TO CATWALK



Words by Yann Sackville-West