Questions. We have a LOT of questions regarding this brand new year. Of course, we could wonder in first place if 2017 will be a better year than 2016. But we are not here to think about the state of our world. It is going wrong, mad, [insert your very own adjective] but you just have to switch your TV on to attend this miserable show. We are here to talk about, to write about, to be passionate about FASHION. This big word that may seem frightening, fascinating or on the contrary totally deprived of its aura of yesteryear. Is it still something that people could dream of? Of course it is! As far as we are concerned we are totally fascinated by Fashion. This world never ceases to amaze us. Clothes, editorials, models, exhibitions we love the whole package! Sometimes, this world gets on our nerves with its excesses, its fake designers, its fake icons but we guess this is the price to pay! In every love story, there are compromises to make to forget about your beloved one's flaws. When these compromises become too heavy, to difficult to deal with, perhaps we'll try something new but for the moment, we're totally fine with it and we love talking & writing about Fashion.
But we're not here to write a love letter to Fashion. This blog is a love letter in itself and need no further explanations. We're here for questions. Numerous questions with no answers at the moment and a word. Re-invention. 2016 was in a way the year of Re-invention for a certain number of fashion houses & designers (with varying degrees of success): Anthony Vaccarello at YSL, Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin, Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga and so many more. This re-invention was a good thing and we're sure 2017 will also sustain this momentum. How will Raf Simons re-invent Calvin Klein? This is perhaps the most important question for us. Where will Miuccia Prada go this time? We love her so much for this amazing ability to create something brand new collection after collection. A few designers are able to achieve such a thing according to us. We could also quote Marc Jacobs in this category. Their ability to re-invent themselves while keeping their very own identity commands respect. It is all about going forward while respecting the customers' expectations and without compromising the business. Not everyone is Demna Gvasalia who has completely transfigured Balenciaga with his sharp/uncompromising aesthetics. What can we expect from him? At Balenciaga? For Vetements, his golden goose? Demna is a kind of prophet of our times and we are religiously listening to him, seduced by his hardcore streetwear. Our times are so ambivalent that at the same time, we are deeply falling under Alessandro Michele's spell with his rock/kitsch/romantic vision of Gucci. At the same time, we want heavy embroideries, frills & embellishments but we also need oversized shapes, radical silhouettes & a WTF attitude. And agender vibes too. One of the key words these days. How will brands manage to deal with this transition? A huge number of fashion houses announced that they will combine Menswear & Womenswear collections in a single fashion show. Does this mean Gucci will feature 160 outfits in one single show? This new era for fashion looks promising but risky too. Yet, it is the exact reflection of what we are experiencing right now in our modern societies; this question of Gender is so present nowadays, so frightening for some, so crucial. Fashion had to mention it and give it the place it completely deserves. We can already imagine that this topic will be a genuinely burning one unlike this "See Now Buy Now" thing we read everywhere in 2016. A kind of damp squib in our opinion.
There are so many reasons to get excited about 2017! Just take a look at the Dover Street Market website (or visit the stores if you are lucky enough!) to catch a glimpse of all these juicy Resort 2017 & SS17 collections coming for you like the new Vetements, Raf Simons or Gosha Rubchinskiy ones. According to us, these three could well illustrate the definition of a fashion dream. We hope we could own some pieces; perhaps some Gosha, much more affordable that the two others, but let's dream about the Collab galore of Vetements (with Reebok, Church's, Levi's, Comme des Garçons shirt, Eastpak...) or the artistic one between Raf Simons & Robert Mapplethorpe. But we will still dream of so many other brands & designers: Sacai, Comme des Garçons, Loewe & J.W.Anderson... We want 2017 to be about excitement, about new things, new directions. We want beauty, art, books. We want fabulous ad campaigns (one of our many obsessions we have to confess...). We want tears in our eyes because what we're looking at is superb/intense/rare and not because one of our absolute idols is dead. We want optimism. Good laughs. We want to see Julia Nobis. Natalie Westling. Mica Arganaraz or Rianne van Rompaey on every catwalk. We want good music to dance on. We want good movies to travel. We want new destinations. We want to go back to Antwerp, Amsterdam or Copenhagen (we are very much into exotic places as you can see it). We want friendship, love, humanity & kindness because that's what life is all about at the end of the day.
Some of the reasons why 2017 looks promising...
Gucci SS17 by Glen Luchford
Editorial by Luigi & Iango for Vogue Japan February 2017
Vogue UK February 2017
Martin Margiela for Hermès - Exhibition @Antwerp MoMu [March 31st - August 27th]
Jacquemus SS17 by David Luraschi
Valentino SS17 by David Sims
Rei Kawakubo - Comme des Garçons @Met Museum [May4th - September 4th]
J.W.Anderson SS17 by Jamie Hawkesworth starring Chloé Sevigny
Louis Vuitton SS17 by Bruce Weber
Chanel SS17 by Karl Lagerfled
Words by Charles Margueritte & Yann Sackville-West