09/01/2017

MEN IN UNIFORM [ PART TWO ]

The Craig Green Autumn-Winter 2016 collection was one of the viral fashion moments of 2016 even if it was not featured in my 2016 According to Yann. Sometimes, you have to make a choice and I went for Jacquemus but the Craig Green ad campaign shot by Nick Knight was definitely one of my favorite photographs of the year. There is something unique about this London-based menswear designer (who, by the way, won the Menswear Designer of the Year Award @British Fashion Awards) that is hard to describe in a few words. His man is a man who loves to be wrapped in work-wear inspired utility uniforms. They do have a particular resonance in Craig Green's work. These garments make the wearer stand in the streets and you definitely know, at first glance, that what he is wearing is one of Craig Green's creations.That's what makes him so unique. There is something ceremonial about these clothes and I would even add something quite magical about them. They are not your typical uniforms because they are made with emotion, bearing a mysterious & intriguing side.

His Autumn-Winter 2017 collection features these signature uniforms filled with soul. Heavy pieces of fabric looking like carpets are sewn and laced together to create dramatic complex patchworks reminding us of actual garments we could have in our wardrobe. These structures or layers of fabrics are actually clothes put together in a different perspective; the kind of perspective that makes you think. When you're wearing Craig Green, you're wearing a concept, an idea, a struggle, a loud cry against our world's issues. Literally, you see a man wearing different pieces of carpet adorned with embroideries. Craig Green calls them "Carpet people" also adding that they are "anonymous travelers", a "weird idea of a hero". After all, it's about masculinity and its conceptual definition. These clothes are telling the story of their lives in the most violent, brutal, emotional and beautiful way, This collection is a manifesto with fabrics that seem to come from different places. Romanticism, "Nomadism" and perhaps "Survivalism" are beautifully embedded into these clothes; clothes that put men on a pedestal.


Words by Yann Sackville-West







Pictures by Chloé Le Drezen



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