16/01/2017

THE POST-CASTIGLIONI ERA

Since the departure of Consuelo Castiglioni we have been wondering if the essence of Marni will survive? How will the brand be able to go forward without its founder? These fundamental questions are quickly swept away by the first silhouettes imagined by Francesco Risso. The designer who is coming from Prada is keeping up with the Castigioni's legacy and pushing up the eccentric elegance signature. Models are coming in and out of digital corridors using a binary code to explore multiple realities or connecting different periods.  They seem to jump from the past to the present facing up the future. The setting is obviously a metaphor for the house's period of transition. This collection is clearly an introduction to the post-Castiglioni era.


Francesco Risso is looking to the past to capture a certain modernity, back to the 70's and 80's sophistication, trying to pump it up with the dialogue Castiglioni had started. The new Marni man is a man of both extravagance & chic and is definitely facing the future without the fear of being over-dressed. He is a man who loves to experiment, wearing prints & colors as if he didn't care. This riot of prints & colors suggests that he is a man who loves arts; he is mixing them like an abstract expressionist. This Autumn Winter 2017/18 collection is visually bold looking like the work of a sharp painter. Solid warm colors for a deeply passionate man. The collection features slouchy belted silhouettes with unpredictable details like the furry headpieces, the padded loungewear-inspired uniforms, the crazy mix'n match of prints, textiles, fabrics etc...This collection is celebrating men with a playful side that needs to be taken seriously. We are jumping into another reality with this collection escaping, for a moment, the tense surrounding world. We are exploring a colorful utopia; like in a reverie! All these warm colors even makes us forget that it's an autumn-winter collection! Warm color for winter is not a new thing, especially for a brand like Marni but it is so beautifully done that it looks like it's the first time. Thank you Francesco Risso for giving us this impression! In one collection, you have proven us that the future of this fashion house we love so much is safe. We can't wait for the next episodes!

Words by Yann Sackville-West










Pictures by Martina Ferrara for Dazed


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