Beginning & End; this is how we could sum up this New York Fashion Week for Autumn Winter 2017/18. Indeed, its two main events have been the beginnings of Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and the end of the Proenza Schouler era in the Big Apple, Jack McCullough & Lazaro Hernandez having decided to show their future collections during the Parisian Couture week. This is a huge loss for #NYFW but definitely a brand new exciting start for the wonder boys. This move to the City of Lights means an even bigger visibility, a new position on the market and the re-positioning of the brand to the core of what Proenza Schouler really is. It also means important challenges for the brand. Paris is the Capital of Fashion and compared to New York (and its rather poor schedule with only a few big names) the renowned & iconic brands are legion there; the competition will be tougher, they will have to prove worthy.
So it's time to go strong & global for the Proenza Schouler duet. This is the end of their American adventure, leaving the city that has celebrated them and made them who they are now. Let's just say their trial period is over now. They just have to grow now, to go forward in being even more creative and to continue the dialogue they have started with fashion & their audience. Actually, they will have to do what they know best; just be themselves. No compromises at all.
Their Autumn Winter 2017/18 collection taking place in an abandoned building is filled with pieces that need to be defined with superlatives! This is a major collection even better that their SS17 effort that was already something of a kind! All the elements we love so much about Proenza Schouler are here: deconstructed tailoring, couture asymmetries, layers revealing hand craftsmanship, statement splashes of colors, risky textures like metallic, leather lattice... This is a strong collection with strong pieces for strong women. Just have a look at the first silhouette hitting the runway to the sound of a chaotic soundtrack created by Michel Gaubert & punctuated by the voice of icon Kim Gordon; an oversize coat adorned by giant branded ribbon worn over a leather vinyle-like top and pink tailored pants. The duality of this silhouette, the perfect mix between femininity & masculinity, between hard & soft is the founding act of this AW17 collection. Clothes are literally wrapping the body with a clever asymmetrical play showing some arms, some hips in the most sensual way. This is a wardrobe for strong women who are not afraid to show who they are. An excessive, disruptive, complex wardrobe for the NYC woman and beyond because after all, every woman/girl dreams of being a NYC woman/girl one day. We particularly love the use of this shiny leather almost like PVC in several pieces giving this collection a raw edge symbolizing the raw side of the city. New York is not all about glamour, Carrie Bradshaw like shopping sessions or visits to the Met. Just like any other cities in the world, New York can be dangerous, harsh & depressing. You definitely have to be strong to have a full NYC experience. The Proenza Schouler woman is strong and arty. She loves Art and it is obvious when you take a look at her accessories & at the way she's mixing complex pleated midi skirts with artsy tops. And what to say of these floor-length dresses made out of sheer & knits with colors mixed like in a Picasso painting? Absolutely stunning and undoubtedly the PS Touch. Just like these closing sequined dresses - the result of a complex draping of raw & couture textures- or the white one shoulder top layered over a red leather lattice. Genuine works of art proving the talent & creativity of Jack & Lazaro.
This collection is definitely an ode to femininity & women's strength. Times are hard for everyone but in this Trump era, women are experiencing things that should not be allowed & commonly accepted. The Proenza Schouler wardrobe is one for modern day warriors, for self-confident women who really know what feminism means. After all, you don't necessarily need to write feminism/female/women on a tee-shirt to prove you're on their sides and this collection is the ultimate proof. We don't think there would have been a better way to close this NYC chapter for Jack McCullough & Lazaro Hernandez than with this beautiful, enchanting, powerful Ode to the City & its women. Good job guys! See you in June in Paris! We can't wait.
Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte