The fashion labels we are admiring the most are those who stick to one concept, to one strong idea. You can't imagine how hard it can be nowadays to look after this idea, to be truly faithful to one's fashion DNA. When you've got too many concepts you're simply losing your substance, your very own signature. Your message has to be clear to reach an audience and the buyers. In our opinion, when it comes to fashion, less is always more.

That's the impression we got back in October, during Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017, when we had the chance & pleasure to meet our favorite Latvian designer again; Keta Gutmane. Looking at her beautiful clothes, at her monochrome palette, we really had the feeling that the color Black was her signature. More than that it is a statement she's trying to redefine collection after collection, to reinvent in her search for the perfect uniform. Season after season, Keta Gutmane is revamping the ethos of her eponymous brand. Her creations are pieces with ideas, with a rebellious spirit and some punk vibes too; pieces where the past is meeting the present. In the designer's clothes, you have to express your uniqueness, your individuality and above all, you need to build a character looking just like you but a stronger & more powerful version of yourself. Her clothes give you an attitude and this time, into Keta's hands, Black is deconstructed into something new & subtle; a clash of references going from traditional tailoring to a much more modern approach.

In this Spring Summer 2017 collection, structural pieces meet a broken tailoring composed of lightweight cupro (a silky artificial fabric), wrinkled cotton or some kind of tech coating adding textures. These well-made garments, though made of raw & innovative materials are so easy to wear; those are definitely pieces we want/need/love to wear! Straps, zips & pockets are here to embellish and to bring an alternative & functional options. In this collection, workwear is twisted with a sportswear expertise, utility is meeting a forward thinking design. There is a very clever play on proportions & textures here; long textured coats are sported with lightweight dresses that can be paired with cropped wide trousers. Structured bomber jackets are perfect to twist white shirts with unexpected cut-outs on the back to layer with cut-out detailed skirts. You may also layer an asymmetrical sleeveless dress over big trousers with slit hems. A perfect & so desirable sporty touch meeting a powerful tailoring. With this SS17 collection, Keta Gutmane is also inventing a new character, a new femininity; take for instance the wrinkled strap vest worn with a bra & big trousers. Breakout details giving a masculine overall along with some punk dynamics. 

Once again, we were captivated by the work of Keta Gutmane and by her passion & wish for sharing. Season after season, she is breathing a brand new energy into her uniforms and thus, she is creating her very own definition of subtle beauty.

Words by Yann Sackville West & Charles Margueritte

Photography: Martins Cirulis

Creative consult#marlosaalmink
Garments: all Keta Gutmane SS17
Shoes: all The Last Conspiracy
Model: Daniela Sokolova, Starsystem Latvia
MUA: Aija Udentina
Shot in Riga, Latvia.

All pictures above are courtesy of the designer

 Charles wearing a SS17 Bomber Jacket

 Keta Gutmane wearing her own creations

Yann wearing a SS17 Jacket & SS16 Trousers

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