Uniform & Prada are a match made in Heaven and a story that has been going on for years now. This is a genuine obsession for Miuccia Prada, "a fixation" as she told Katie Grand in System Magazine 8 Autumn/Winter 2016. This love story is just as topical as ever in the brand new collection of the iconic Italian label presented yesterday in Milano.
In a very "Comic Strip" atmosphere, models, looking like they were working for some aerospace company, were sporting nylon trousers buckled up on the ankle (like some neo-cyclists - an impression reinforced by some of the crazy footwear propositions), shorty shorts worn with matching jackets & graphic-printed/striped shirts and jumpsuits. Backstage, the designer told she were "crazy about jumpsuits probably because it's simple". You cannot deny this sense of "simplicity" exuding from this collection. Caution! This is a very Prada simplicity and we definitely do not have the same definition as the brand. Of course, the pieces are beautiful & bold but the styling, the general impression even the prints (mostly in black & white, hand-drawn, very graphic far less complex than those by Christophe Chemin for AW16 for instance) convey a sense of effortlessness. We have already seen more dense, more far-fetched collection. Along with this sense of simplicity, comes utilitarian vibes in the bumbags (a fashion faux pas that seems to be more & more present on the catwalks and in the fashionistas' wardrobes), the Velcro, the zips, the socks & sandals combo (another commonly accepted fashion faux-pas) and in the fabrics too. All these elements are counterbalanced with more classical ones, more dapper, more Prada-like in a way; the coats and outerwear in general, the herringbone, the cardigans, the loafers, the boxy shirts, the stripes, this 50s impression (a time period that is very dear to Miuccia Prada) giving a more mature look at this collection. A little bit of everything for everybody actually but once again, made in a very Prada way, with a genuine thought behind it, a genuine desire to wake our wildest fashion desires up.In the previously quoted interview with Fashion guru Katie Grand, Ms Prada also said that "you can hide beneath a uniform and you don't have to tell anyone anything about yourself". True but by wearing the Prada ones, you can't hide very long and you'll soon be acknowledged as someone who deeply & faithfully loves Fashion. This is a feeling hard to describe when we're looking at a Prada runway show or at Prada clothes in stores, this immediate sense of desirability, of fascination. An obsession. The purest & sweetest one.