"There was a boy- a very strange, enchanted boy - they say he wandered very far, very far, over land and sea- a little shy and sad of eye - but very wise was he", this is how began the Marni Spring Summer 18 show presented yesterday in Milano. Originally sung by crooner Nat King Cole and covered years later by our Ultimate Idol Mr Bowie, here, their voices intertwined, Past & "Present" are meeting in a magically re-vamped remix. An enchanted and mesmerizing soundtrack aiming at one thing, putting you in the mood for Marni, a brand we have been loving for so long now. When Consuelo Castiglioni left her house a few months ago, we were kind of worried about its future. Not that we were thinking that newly appointed Francesco Risso would not be up to it but Marni was so Castiglioni and vice versa. The Autumn Winter 17/18 womenswear collection did not fully convince us but for this SS18 one we're kind of reassured. Marni is in good hands and will stick to its peculiar & beautiful aesthetics. No need to overthink it; everything was there, in the theme, a kind of trivial & innocent beauty but with a lot of charm & personality. But simple designs are often the most difficult to achieve; here it works so well, like a charm. So, look at the collection in the video below and keep in mind some lyrics from the song "the greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return".
Entitled "Lost & Found, this collection is proceeding through romantic &pastoral waters. It is all about"enjoying life as an act of self discovery" as you can read on the Instagram account of the brand, finding modernity within the past or perhaps looking for something past & old-fashioned in the sometimes stifling modernity. Greatly influenced by the fifties (after all, Francesco Risso was trained at Prada, the house where 50s are King), this collection offers a wide range of somehow classical/timeless pieces with a twist; visually bold & naive prints, child graffiti, argyles, stripes. Patterns & prints are in the Marni DNA. A visual orgasm, a riots of textures, so desirable for the next Spring Summer season. Cropped trousers are counterbalancing the silhouettes, the lightweight tailoring almost makes us crave for dog days. With this collection, Risso is definitely nodding to the Marni cornerstones but at the same time, he is opening the way to something new, with the stripes, the proportions, the colors; defining an enchanted & naive beauty, a younger & cooler Marni man/boy yet still totally edgy. A man/boy wearing bathing suit jumpsuits, pastel colors, singing songs of innocence and rushing into modernity with his colorful sneakers.
This may be a new perspective, a new design, new proportions infused with an easy to wear attitude but this is definitely Marni!