When it comes to music I can become obsessional quite quickly. Like a kid who loves a movie so much he/she can spend hours and hours watching it (that reminds me of my younger brother who would watch the Die Hards on a loop), I can be quite frightening & weird (let's face it) when a song enters my mind and never leaves it. I have been experiencing this situation since Lorde released her new song Green Light and it has gotten even worse since Liability, another new song came out. I was eagerly waiting for Lorde's new album. I needed a new album by Lorde, she has such a unique & precious place in the Pop music landscape. When her 1st album came out four years ago, an album deservedly entitled Pure Heroine (hence my addiction), I had an epiphany! She sounded so new, so genuine when describing what it feels like for a teenage girl; though I wasn't myself neither a teenager nor a girl, it deeply moved me. Just listen to her song Ribs to get convinced, it is so beautiful and feels so right, the words, the music, the arrangement; everything is perfect ans some sentences are still deeply anchored in my heart "it feels so scary getting old".
So a new album is coming in June, it is called Melodrama and I'm already loving it! Once again it will be about her life, about love, about disappointments, about what she went through after the huge success of her first effort. The first two songs are definitely setting the tone as to what to expect; it will be crazy, emotional, with a hint of Bowie (especially in Liability) and it will make us dance! Talking about our beloved David Bowie, he once said some times before his death that Lorde was the future of music, I love to think so too. Ok this will only be her second album but what she's creating is quite phenomenal for someone so young (she is only 20!!). What she is achieving in these songs is fascinating and her voice is more powerful & distinctive than ever! The live performances she gave last weekend at Saturday Night Live (and many many others! The first coming to my mind is perhaps the amazing tribute she paid to Mr Bowie at last year's Brit Awards) can only be the ultimate proof that Lorde is a great artist of our times!
The fashion labels we are admiring the most are those who stick to one concept, to one strong idea. You can't imagine how hard it can be nowadays to look after this idea, to be truly faithful to one's fashion DNA. When you've got too many concepts you're simply losing your substance, your very own signature. Your message has to be clear to reach an audience and the buyers. In our opinion, when it comes to fashion, less is always more.
That's the impression we got back in October, during Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017, when we had the chance & pleasure to meet our favorite Latvian designer again; Keta Gutmane. Looking at her beautiful clothes, at her monochrome palette, we really had the feeling that the color Black was her signature. More than that it is a statement she's trying to redefine collection after collection, to reinvent in her search for the perfect uniform. Season after season, Keta Gutmane is revamping the ethos of her eponymous brand. Her creations are pieces with ideas, with a rebellious spirit and some punk vibes too; pieces where the past is meeting the present. In the designer's clothes, you have to express your uniqueness, your individuality and above all, you need to build a character looking just like you but a stronger & more powerful version of yourself. Her clothes give you an attitude and this time, into Keta's hands, Black is deconstructed into something new & subtle; a clash of references going from traditional tailoring to a much more modern approach.
In this Spring Summer 2017 collection, structural pieces meet a broken tailoring composed of lightweight cupro (a silky artificial fabric), wrinkled cotton or some kind of tech coating adding textures. These well-made garments, though made of raw & innovative materials are so easy to wear; those are definitely pieces we want/need/love to wear! Straps, zips & pockets are here to embellish and to bring an alternative & functional options. In this collection, workwear is twisted with a sportswear expertise, utility is meeting a forward thinking design. There is a very clever play on proportions & textures here; long textured coats are sported with lightweight dresses that can be paired with cropped wide trousers. Structured bomber jackets are perfect to twist white shirts with unexpected cut-outs on the back to layer with cut-out detailed skirts. You may also layer an asymmetrical sleeveless dress over big trousers with slit hems. A perfect & so desirable sporty touch meeting a powerful tailoring. With this SS17 collection, Keta Gutmane is also inventing a new character, a new femininity; take for instance the wrinkled strap vest worn with a bra & big trousers. Breakout details giving a masculine overall along with some punk dynamics.
Once again, we were captivated by the work of Keta Gutmane and by her passion & wish for sharing. Season after season, she is breathing a brand new energy into her uniforms and thus, she is creating her very own definition of subtle beauty.
Words by Yann Sackville West & Charles Margueritte
The choice was to hard to make this time. So, we decided to give you our ten absolute favorite collections. Here there are, the most beautiful, the most flamboyant, the most talked about, the most creative, the most disruptive collections.